Hi all,
So, after I bought an engine to replace my frozen engine, I tried REALLY hard to get my engine unfrozen. Well, it worked so now I'm trying to get it running. Obviously first thing is the timing belt replacement.
So my car is an '80 but somewhere along the way it had an 1800 dropped in, so that is the current project engine. I started the job yesterday but did not take the old belt off yet - I got stuck at the crank pulley removal (I now read I don't need to remove, but not sure if that's true for the 1800 too).
Questions:
1. What happened to all of the guides posted to the web? Months ago I downloaded all the the service manuals for the 2000 engine, but now I need them for the 1800. Seems like all of the links are dead. I think I got it from http://www.danielreinhardt.com/fiat/ServiceManual/ before.
2. The timing belt guide I do have is for the 2000. Are the instructions for the 1800 the same?
3. It says to remove the crank pulley in the guide, do I need to do that for an 1800? If not, will it just slip by the pulley?
4. The timing marks on all of my pulleys currently do not allign. They are close, but do not allign when rotated. So when I remove the belt, do I just turn them slightly to make them allign? I know you're not supposed to spin them with the belt removed but how else am I supposed to make them allign? Does counter clockwise or clockwise make a difference at that point?
5. I will say I honestly didn't look too hard, but the only crankshaft timing mark I saw was when I had the timing belt cover on. Now that I have the cover off, I didn't notice a crank allignment mark. Do I actually need to put the cover back just to allign the crank?
6. Am I correct that the passenger side camshaft mark is visible from behind and the driver's side is from the front? I'm not 100% that I'm looking at the correct pointers.
7. Is there anyway to tell if the water pump is good? It feels ok and since I'm not even sure if this engine will run, I'd rather just keep it for now if possible.
I think that's all for now but I'm sure there will be more! I appreciate everyone's help!
In Progress Timing Belt Questions?
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So Cal Mark
Re: In Progress Timing Belt Questions?
2. belt replacement instructions are the same
3. if you can slip the belt out from around the pulley don't remove it. When I do a belt replacement, I like to remove the pulleys and inspect the seals. Usually they're leaking, so it's a good time to replace them. If you remove the pulley, the crank sprocket has an index line that should line up with a casting on the seal retainer to indicate tdc.
4. if the timing marks are more than 1 tooth off, you need to align them. Moving them 1 or 2 teeth isn't an issue. You may find they are less than a full tooth off. This is due to prior head resurfacing, worn sprockets and slight variation in belt mfgs specs
6. The cam sprockets have a hole in them for indexing. There is a casting flange on each cam housing for alignment from the rear. On the front, there is a pointer that attaches to the top of the water outlet for front alignment using the same holes in the sprocket
7. If the water pump flange turns without any looseness or roughness, and doesn't show signs of leakage from the weep hole, then use it until you check the motor out.
It sounds like you're using the seized engine. If so, how did you get it unstuck? It could possibly have damaged cyls/rings
3. if you can slip the belt out from around the pulley don't remove it. When I do a belt replacement, I like to remove the pulleys and inspect the seals. Usually they're leaking, so it's a good time to replace them. If you remove the pulley, the crank sprocket has an index line that should line up with a casting on the seal retainer to indicate tdc.
4. if the timing marks are more than 1 tooth off, you need to align them. Moving them 1 or 2 teeth isn't an issue. You may find they are less than a full tooth off. This is due to prior head resurfacing, worn sprockets and slight variation in belt mfgs specs
6. The cam sprockets have a hole in them for indexing. There is a casting flange on each cam housing for alignment from the rear. On the front, there is a pointer that attaches to the top of the water outlet for front alignment using the same holes in the sprocket
7. If the water pump flange turns without any looseness or roughness, and doesn't show signs of leakage from the weep hole, then use it until you check the motor out.
It sounds like you're using the seized engine. If so, how did you get it unstuck? It could possibly have damaged cyls/rings
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Pete112
Re: In Progress Timing Belt Questions?
Thanks Mark! I hope to have some time to work on it today armed with that information.
Yes, I thought using the engine that's already in the car is the fastest/easiest option to get it on the road. I figured I won't put too much effort into. If I put a few hours of work into it and can't get it running, then I'll swap it out.
As for getting it unstuck, lots of PB Blaster, lots of trans fluid, lots of time, and lots of force. Because I was trying to take care of the title issue before putting money into it, I had months to drop fluid into it. Since I had the replacement engine already, I wasn't worried about breaking the old one by forcing it too hard. I used a breaker bar with a pipe attached to it. Once I added the pipe, it turned relatively easily. Now it turns with the starter and sounds decent when cranking.
I'm prepared that it may have too much blow-by or may not even start, but like I said, it's worth a shot!
Yes, I thought using the engine that's already in the car is the fastest/easiest option to get it on the road. I figured I won't put too much effort into. If I put a few hours of work into it and can't get it running, then I'll swap it out.
As for getting it unstuck, lots of PB Blaster, lots of trans fluid, lots of time, and lots of force. Because I was trying to take care of the title issue before putting money into it, I had months to drop fluid into it. Since I had the replacement engine already, I wasn't worried about breaking the old one by forcing it too hard. I used a breaker bar with a pipe attached to it. Once I added the pipe, it turned relatively easily. Now it turns with the starter and sounds decent when cranking.
I'm prepared that it may have too much blow-by or may not even start, but like I said, it's worth a shot!
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So Cal Mark
Re: In Progress Timing Belt Questions?
the trans fluid works well, the only problem could be if the cyl walls were real rusty. Good luck with it