While the head is off

[wengr]

I planned to replace my waterpump, fan switch and thermostat today, put the car back together and hope my overheating issues disappear. wishful thinking most likely so when I saw what all was involved in replacing these items I figured what the hell, might as well do the head gasket right now and hopefully be done with it. So I removed the top end complete and will disassemble on the bench but I have some questions:
1 How do you get the tensioner bearing off the shaft?
2 all 6 exhaust manifold to headpipe studs broke, is there any chance of getting them out and avoiding machine work or a new manifold?
3 what's the best approach to put it back, reassemble on bench and install complete top end? or piece it back together on the car?
4 What's the correct size socket for the crank pully? it's an 83, I had up to 30mm and it's bigger than that.
5 Why do I have a triple pully on the crank? one runs the WP and alt. one would run the ac which I am removing, what's the third one for?

thanks in advance

[So Cal Mark]

boy, that's a big jump from a water pump to a head gasket! I'd reassemble the whole thing on the bench before installing it. As for the manifold, without seeing it hard to tell the condition of the studs. That certainly makes a case for soaking them with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them. You may have to drill all the broken studs out if there isn't any stub to grab. Use antiseize on the new studs and nuts.
I use 1 1/2" socket for the crankshaft. The tensioner bearing is a snug fit, but you don't need a press. Support the bearing in a vise and tap the bracket off.
I'd suggest you tap all of the head bolt holes in the block while the head is off. That ensures an accurate torque reading.
All of those motors had the triple pulley. On the carbed 2L motors, the inner pulley was for the air pump, so if the car had ac all three grooves were used

[azygoustoyou]

You can get an extractor bit that's like a drill bit. After you drill a small hole into the bolt. You put the extractor bit into the hole and put your drill in reverse and it will take the broken bolt out. I got mine at Sears. I had to remove a bolt on my Harley. It worked really good. I had it out in ten minutes.

[narfire]

Broken stud removal is a snap if you or know somwone handy with a welder (wire feed).
Had to do one on Friday,took 90 seconds.
Place a nut over the stud,you don't need any of the stud showing,and then fill up from the top off the stud with weld to the top of the nut. Wait a bit,take a wrench and back the nut out and the weld should(has to date) hold the nut to the stud and out it all comes without screwing up the threads in the manifold.
I've used this with brake bleed screws as well

[wengr]

thanks for all the replies, as for the stud extraction the main problem is that they are so tight due to rust. I have to believe that if the stud twisted and broke before spinning it will do so again' even if the extractor or welded nut holds. I will try the rust penetrant but have not had much luck with it in the past. Mark - so I can take the whole tensioner assembly off without the spring flying off making reassembling difficult? And I did plan to tap the block threads based on a post of yours I found in the archives. Would you happen to know what the correct size tap is? And all of the head bolts save one were pretty dry. one was very oily, cause for concern? thanks greg

[narfire]

The heat from the welding helps break the bond formed by the rust. Try it...you'll like it.

[Tappy]

i've had a broken bolt also last time removing the tensioner assembly , i've drilled a little hole in there with a dremel after i had this guiding hole i used a bigger drill

after that i used a torx bit and slammed it in the drilled hole with a hammer :

clicked on a ratchet and the broken of bold came out nicely , i did like Mark suggested , used lots of penetrating oil , and probably slamming it in with the hammer breaked up the bond a little

[wengr]

a small hole as a guiding hole - that's a good idea that I had not thought of. thanks Tappy
I also might as well do the valve shims while it's on the bench. are you guys measuring and ordering individual shims, or getting whole kits?

[Ernie]

Tappy,

Thanks for the great idea. The last two times I tried to use an "easy-out" the darm thing broke off and then I had a bigger problem -- no drill bit I had would make a dent in the broken pieces of the easy-out.

I have no problem sacrificing the torx bits I've almost never used.

Ernie

[wengr]

The heat from the welding helps break the bond formed by the rust. Try it...you'll like it.

ah I see. I actually have a small mig loaned out to a friend. I'll get it and give it a try. thanks

[wengr]

Also there is a fair bit of oil covering the block, worse in the front. Maybe I should replace the crank seal. is this a big deal? any special tools?

[baltobernie]

1 How do you get the tensioner bearing off the shaft?
2 all 6 exhaust manifold to headpipe studs broke, is there any chance of getting them out and avoiding machine work or a new manifold?
3 what's the best approach to put it back, reassemble on bench and install complete top end? or piece it back together on the car?
4 What's the correct size socket for the crank pully? it's an 83, I had up to 30mm and it's bigger than that.
5 Why do I have a triple pully on the crank? one runs the WP and alt. one would run the ac which I am removing, what's the third one for?

1. does it make noise when you turn it? lateral or runout play? if not, leave it alone; to remove - hit it off with a hammer
2. lots of good ideas above; remember that several studs are "wet" (protrude into oil or coolant passages. seal w/copper- based sealant on threads
3. on the bench. use four head bolts and nuts on the corners for a makeshift stand. don't allow open valves to rest on
bench!
4. 38mm
5. fiat probably used the same pulley for all 124 models, incl. intermediate model years with smog pump
bonus: while the head is off, inspect, adjust and change oil (use diff oil) of steering box, which hides under the intake
double secret bonus: front crank seal? easy-peasy; remove alum. housing, pry out and replace w/new

[wengr]

Hello Bernie. thanks for the great info. I like the tip about using the head bolts to keep it up. saves me from making some wooden gadget. I'll check the steering box and do the crank seal. thanks greg

[baltobernie]

You're welcome.

Yeah, 4 hex nuts are a lot cheaper than a stand! Hey, you mentioned oil on the front. Maybe an aux. shaft seal leaking, too? Similar housing to the crank. seal, same procedure. Tap the new seal in with a 2 x 4 block between the housing and hammer. Lube w/motor oil. Use new paper gasket on housing.

[racydave]

The MIG trick is great. I kinda hate to drive a easy-out in a drilled stud because it expands it tighter to the hole, but drilling on center is a must! The hose on the vapor trap is easy to replace with the intake and head off, otherwise very difficult to do!