Threads stripped...suggestions?

[kmead]

socal: Why wouldn't this help with the low oil pressure problem?
Peter

The oil in that area is not under pressure it is basically a pool of oil, its part of the path the oil takes to go back down into the sump using gravity to then be pumped under pressure back into the bearings of the engine. This oil is what leaks out of the sides of the cam bearings and the squirters that ensure the valves are lubed.

Since this is "waste" oil, it is not under pressure. Hot oil is quite thin and will go around and along coarse threads quite nicely.

[OaklandSpider]

Reviving a VERY old thread here:
Oil leaking from same stripped threads, BADLY! Running down the side of the engine block, getting hot, and smoking like crazy.
Just got word form a local mechanic that it would be 4-5 hours labor to repair threads
Diagnosis: Re-helicoil them at $35 each, pull the cam boxes,draining the cooling, removing the Alt belt, front cover, & then camshafts, reassemble it & time the cams & bleed the system = 4 to 5 hours.
Does this sound right?
I was under the impression one could just re-bore, re-thread the holes and re-install the bolts, hopefully sealing the leak.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance...
Peter

[narfire]

I think the mechanic can see a few issues. Getting at the things with the exhaust pipe, coolant overflow ect, studs sit at a bit of a downward angle, stud near the firewall... drill that out accurately? Might be an idea,but if you have a few tools and a weekend, Taking the head off and doing the repair on a bench I think is the way to go. You'll need a head gasket and timing belt and a wee bit of instalation fluid as well. Anyone nearby to lend a hand?
Chris

[pastaroni34]

You may consider just a good used head.. they're under $100.

There's no way I'd try to do this while the head is in the car.

FYI.. Heli-Coil does not recommend the use of Loctite/Threadlockers. Its not uncommon for the Loctite to weep through the coils and subsequently jam the bolt installed in the coil. In the end this means the Heli-Coil will rotate when you tighten the bolt..

That being said, I have no idea how you're going to get a decent seal. I've always used Loctite 271 on those studs. Never a problem.