Spider cuts out at 2000 rpm

[PEISPIDERMAN]

Still having problems of car cutting out at 2000 rpm no matter what gear, as soon as tach hits 2000 it just dies out. Only way to drive is keeping the rpm under 2000. Or by full acceleration the car does not cut out. Any ideas????

1980 F/I settings are correct as far as gap and spark plugs all seem good. Anyone have something like this happen???

The weather is sunny and hot and no car to drive.....

Kent

[mbouse]

i hope you have checked the dizzy cap, and the rotor. additionally, the magnetic pickup leads are o.k.

i'd first try a new control module then a different coil.

[pope]

Maybe you have the 1800 rpm model

[So Cal Mark]

I would bet that the afm flap sticks at that point

[rlux4]

If you haven't done it in a while, the flap and plenum that the flap is in need to be cleaned periodically. It's easy to take off. You'll find the tolerance is pretty close, so it doesn't take much gunk build up to catch the flap. Spray it with a cleaner and rag it till it's clean. When it's dry a shot of silicone spray on the pivot points wouldn't hurt.
Ron

[PEISPIDERMAN]

thanks for the speedy replies will check out items this afternoon....

[PEISPIDERMAN]

Air Flow meter seems to be functioning very nicely no dirt and freely moves. I just noticed I have a crack in the air duct where the auxilary intake connects to it. Could this cause this type of problem???

And response to Pope it is the 2000 rpm model it clears 1800 no problem....

[So Cal Mark]

air leaks are a big problem with your system since it functions on air volume. I'd inspect that entire boot closely for splits

[PEISPIDERMAN]

Sealed the crack in the air duct and replaced the control module but no difference, I am at a loss to what this could be. Is there any sensor or electical component that is bypassed on full throttle. What happens when not in gear is under light pressure of gas is engine starts to rev when it gets close to 2000 it dies and drops to below and then starts up until 2000 and then dies , if I put it full throttle it will increase up to red line.

Any other ideas, ???

Kent

[rlux4]

Both the air flow meter and the throttle position sensor are types of potentiometers. It could be you have a bad spot on one of them that is loosing the signal that goes to the ECU at that point. Do you have Brad Artigue's Fiat Maintenance Manual? It has a very good section on the L-Jet fuel injection system we have. However, he just got his site back up, and I don't see the manual, just wiring diagrams and carb info. Hopefully, if you don't have it, there's a way to get ahold of it. It is indispensable. I also ran across this post over on Mira about the potentiometer in the air flow meter and how to repair it if needed:
http://the944.com/afm.htm
Keep us posted on how it's going, it will be fixed!
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

I'd say you're going to need some basic test equipment at this point to figure out what is happening. I'd put a noid light into the injector harness and see if you lose injector pulse at that point. A test light can tell if primary spark is going away

[launieg]

I am guessing, but it might be possible that your throttle position sensor is completely out of adjustment. In any case, like Ron said, you really need Brad Artigue's FI Guide. Check for a PM that I've sent you that will get you a copy of it.

[PEISPIDERMAN]

Mystery Solved and Launie is the man of the hour...Thanks to Mark, Ron and Mike, who gave me suggetions to try to fix my baby.

The throttle position sensor/switch was the culpert I had removed the connector to it and the problem disappeared, tried to set as per FI manual but was not working after setting. So manually adjusted and it works great.

Again Thanks for every one who assisted...

Kent