I'm trying to figure out if its possible to set my engine at TDC by using the cam pulley's on my 80 FI without taking the pulley cover off. The timing belt wasn't replaced so all of the pulley's should still be aligned, right? All I should have to do is turn the crank until the timing marks line up on the cam pulley's if I'm not mistaken? Problem is I cant see them without taking the cover off.
I did find 2 rubber plugs on the plate right behind the cam pulley's that look like they are in the exact position of where the pulley's need to be at TDC. You can touch the pulley's through the holes when the rubber plugs are removed. Are these holes used to set the pulley's at TDC? Trying not to do any more work than needed so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick
Cam Timing
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mbouse
Re: Cam Timing
wow, that is a lotta confidence.... belts not slipping and all. but, if you are that confident, then yes. pop those two rubber inserts out of the sheet metal shroud and time away
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Foster48x
Re: Cam Timing
mbouse, thanks for the reply. Maybe I'm overlooking something, what would cause the timing belt to slip? What happened was I messed up the ignition timing while changing out the distributer gasket and seal by cranking the engine. I didn't mess with the timing belt at all.
Rick
Rick
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mbouse
Re: Cam Timing
glass half empty... pessimistic. taking things for granted when the additional work up front is 1/100 of repair time and money... voice of experience.. pick one.
timing belts can slip. they wear, and are recommended to be changed at 30,000 miles or five years. they are made of rubber and can prematurely wear, and then slip. of course, they can also be forced to "slip" by a cam or gear momentarily seizing or hanging up.
you cannot see the timing of the auxilliary shaft by looking through the back of the sheet metal shroud. that can only be seen by removing the T-belt cover. Did you know that there are FOUR alignment points for correct t-belt timing?
but, if you are positive that your timing is 100%..goferit
timing belts can slip. they wear, and are recommended to be changed at 30,000 miles or five years. they are made of rubber and can prematurely wear, and then slip. of course, they can also be forced to "slip" by a cam or gear momentarily seizing or hanging up.
you cannot see the timing of the auxilliary shaft by looking through the back of the sheet metal shroud. that can only be seen by removing the T-belt cover. Did you know that there are FOUR alignment points for correct t-belt timing?
but, if you are positive that your timing is 100%..goferit
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Foster48x
Re: Cam Timing
Yes I'm aware of the 4 timing points. I'm just trying to keep from having to drain the radiator (again) to get the cover off. Seeing as how It was timed perfectly before I messed with the distributor and the belt is in almost new condition last time I had the cover off, I'm hoping I can get away with just using the 2 cam shaft marks to set it to TDC. If not I guess I'll have to pull it all apart.
Thanks for the help.
Rick
Thanks for the help.
Rick
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manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: Cam Timing
Take the plugs out, disconnect the wire from the coil to the distributor, put car in neutral. With a 38mm or 1.5" socket turn over the crankshaft clockwise. If you don't have a socket that big you can put additional pressure on the alternator belt and use the alternator nut to turn the engine over.
From the passenger side you should be able to see the mark on the crank pulley and the corresponding timing mark on the bracket. When those line up remove the rubber plugs and see if the cam marks are lining up. If not, then turn the engine over again until the crank mark lines up again and re-check the cam marks. (crank pulley revolves twice for every one revolution of the cam pulleys)
Since the belt rides on both sides of the auxiliary pulley, the chances of it skipping teeth are close to nil. Even if the aux pulley is, off a tooth it probably won't matter. The important thing is that the crank and cam pulleys are spot on.
From the passenger side you should be able to see the mark on the crank pulley and the corresponding timing mark on the bracket. When those line up remove the rubber plugs and see if the cam marks are lining up. If not, then turn the engine over again until the crank mark lines up again and re-check the cam marks. (crank pulley revolves twice for every one revolution of the cam pulleys)
Since the belt rides on both sides of the auxiliary pulley, the chances of it skipping teeth are close to nil. Even if the aux pulley is, off a tooth it probably won't matter. The important thing is that the crank and cam pulleys are spot on.
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peterfrueh
Re: Cam Timing
Good Afternoon gentlemen. I am a new member having just purchased an 81 anniversary spyder with a bad engine. After reading about someones engine meltdown on this site somewhere due to incorrect timing I am "somewhat apprehensive" about firing up my newly rebuilt engine. To make matters worse the rebuilder was less than confident about the timing. He noted the correct location of the the cam pulleys to the marks on the fixed pointer and the alignment of the crank pulley to the center of the pointer, but was a little less than confident about the auxillary shaft.
Also I have read about the four point timing method in mbouse's post and guess I better get that pulley right too. Any thoughts from the members?
Thanks in advance
Also I have read about the four point timing method in mbouse's post and guess I better get that pulley right too. Any thoughts from the members?
Thanks in advance
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So Cal Mark
Re: Cam Timing
turn it by hand at least 2 revolutions before using the starter motor
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Foster48x
Re: Cam Timing
(What did I tell you. Mark answered it even before I could send this)
Welcome to the site Peter. I would suggest you post this issue as a separate topic in the Engine section. You will probably get a better response for your specific problem.
If not, someone with more experience on the subject will hopefully find it and chime in. The members here are a wealth of information and are more than willing to point you in the right direction.
Good luck with your fix!
Rick
Welcome to the site Peter. I would suggest you post this issue as a separate topic in the Engine section. You will probably get a better response for your specific problem.
If not, someone with more experience on the subject will hopefully find it and chime in. The members here are a wealth of information and are more than willing to point you in the right direction.
Good luck with your fix!
Rick