Yeah, I know what the tool looks like, I can't fabricate it though as my(my dad's) array of tools, and lack of a garage keeps me from having a lot of fancy stuff.narfire wrote:I found the shims to be the same diameter as some volvo shims. The volvo's do not go as thick as sometimes needed for the fiat. just don't go less than 3 mill thick I think it was, as the cam lobe will whack the edge of the tappet,(tapping noise).
In the Haynes fiat manual 68-78 there is a picture(adjusting/replacing valves) of what looks like a tool that will keep the tappet down while pulling the shim. Might be able to fabricate something like that. The one offered by the vendors does work well,but some fiddling is required when doing #4 exhaust (dist. opening). The IAP catalogue has a bit about how to set up a chart to help get the right shim size.
Good luck & have fun
narfire wrote:Might make it easier, but gonna have to be spot on with the measurements,as if the clearance is still not right after putting the cam tower back on and torquing it down then well... Noticed the alfas have their shim under the tappet,so I perhaps they might have to do the clearances by taking the cam towers off. It should work for you if you get accurate clearance measurements before taking the towers/cams off.
I used a workmate type bench,then one can kinda clamp the head in place,tighten the two sides and have an opening for the valves to move into.
Yeah definately, my dad keeps telling me not to worry about it, but I can't help but think there's a 28 year old crusty rubber donut back there waiting to fly apart :pnarfire wrote:Glad to here your going to get the nails dirty,cause they will. If you havn't done much wrenching,kinda like me, my grandfather told me a tip 40+ years ago. Before mucking about with the engine,put/wipe your hands in cold cream and let it soak in a bit. When it comes time to clean up the oil comes off easier.
Also if your in the replacing mode,PLEASE check the the rubber "donut" that is located just behind the transmision on the driveline. Any cracks/dry looking change it out,or better yet change it out anyway for a piece of mind. If that lets go holy s..t,evidently not a nice thing. The drive shaft flails about against the trans. tunnel.
It's not really...THAT noisy, but it's definately there. I tend to overexaggerate things, it doesn't sound like the top end is going to fly apart or anything, it's just a minor click that has a definate source.So Cal Mark wrote:if you have a valve that noisy, and a misfire in the exhaust I'd expect a larger problem than adjustment. The clearance won't change that drastically without some part failing. I'd expect a cam lobe that is going flat
I may remeasure them to be sure, but it sounds as if it's the #1 or #2 exhaust valve is the one that's making the noise, hopefully I'll find out soon, I need to plug this cam cover oil leak up.htchevyii wrote:I adjusted my valves a few times without the tool. I used a large flat blade screwdriver, (an old one that I rounded the tip) and a smaller flat blade driver. If you ae careful you can wedge the big screwdriver between the cam and bucket like a wedge and then stick the small one sideways on the edge of the bucket to hold it open while the larger screwdriver is removed. It's a p.i.t.a. and the small screwdriver will probabily slip out a few times, but if you only have a few valves to adjust it can be done, (I did every one of mine that way, once). There is also a special tool that you can but to hold the bucket open instead of the small screwdriver, but it didn;t work much better for me. I bought my tool from Vick's and it does work for #4 if you wiggle it just right.