Vacuum, Idling and Missing Problems

[Dellman]

Hi, I was hoping to find some help on a problem I’m having with my friend’s 78’ Spider. Right now I’m trying to get the motor running good. The engine idles at an unbelievable 2,200 rpms. Another problem is that when I accelerate and bring the motor to over 3,000 rpm, it misses and sputters horribly which makes it quite difficult to drive. I noticed that there seems to be an abundance of vacuum hoses, some of which seem to be missing. In the photos provided, I point out a few places where it seems that there are missing hoses but I don’t know where they go and the manual seems to be no help (or maybe I can’t find the right page). I would appreciate it if someone can tell me where these need to be connected to or if there is a diagram somewhere of where all the hoses need to go. Also, does anyone have any idea to my missing problem? Could a vacuum cause this? I removed the timing belt cover and all the pulleys line up with the appropriate marks and positions. Thanks guys, let me know what I need to do and what I may be doing wrong, I need lots of help and I’d love to get this car running right.

[kilrwail]

Someone has removed portions of the EGR system and air pump. Do you have mandatory emissions testing where this car lives?

[MNspiderman]

the little unit between the valve cover and carb is not used. mine had a factory U shaped hose just went from one side to the other side.

you should back the camera up and take a better photo including the carbonator to the fender where your missing hoses so we can see what you got going on. I've done alot of these repairs but i can't see whats going on with your hoses.

I also have 400 photos of my fiat before and after shots, there are alot of before shots including where those hoses go to, came from and what isn't being used anymore. here is the link. I hope you have highspeed internet. http://s945.photobucket.com/albums/ad299/Krazymaan/

[mbouse]

the very first picture is missing the hose from the air pump. sealed off with electrical tape, 'eh?

har har har... although i disagree that a vacuum leak will cause 2,200 rpm idle speed, i do agree that the emission equipment removal process is stopped less than all the way. i would suggest removing the rest of the equipment for a cleaner look, and an easier engine bay to work on for future issues.

i'd suggest turning down the idle speed screw (right side of carburetor).
i'd suggest finding as many vacuum leaks as you can, and cap them.

the hoses in picture one can be eliminated, but remember to plug the holes they lead to.
the switches in photo two can be eliminated, but remember to plug the hoses.
the valve in picure three can be ignored

have fun, and report back after you have made some changes.

[Dellman]

Nope, no emissions test required in most of this state (Missouri). The only emissions requirements are for vehicles in 4 of our 114 counties of which is only for 1996 or newer cars. Thanks for those photos MNspiderman, I was looking for something like that. I'll try to post better pictures myself asap. I'll trying adjusting the idle and finding leaks and removing the rest of that EGR emissions equipment, it may take awhile as there are a lot of old hoses and I mostly only get time on the weekends to work on this car. What exactly do the switches in photo two do and why can they be eliminated? Thanks a lot!

[mbouse]

what they are doing for you is clutter up the engine bay.

[Dellman]

They are not original?

[mbouse]

look original to me. but, your egr system has been tampered with and is not all present. the effectiveness of the balance of the system is zip, zero, nada.. therefore, they are doing you NO GOOD, and may actually be robbing performance from the engine by adding vacuum leaks.

certainly, at the very least, the non-functioning devices are cluttering up your engine bay.

[Dellman]

Oh okay, I just didn't realize that the switch in photo two had anything to do with the EGR system in photo one. I will take it out then. Thanks

[Dellman]

I removed the remnants of the EGR system, removed the EGR manifold and plugged the sockets where the EGR manifold connected to the motor with bolts with correct threads and plugged the vacuum line leading to it. No noticeable gain in performance (none was expected). I tried adjusting the throttle but it did almost nothing to the idling speed. Will do more work this weekend hopefully.

[Dellman]

Haven't had a chance to check any more vacuum lines. I got the motor to run a LOT better when I discovered that the rotor was worn out where the shaft connected to it. I used a shim to fit it together but a new one is on order for sure.

[MNspiderman]

Once again the name escapes me so I'll just describe what i am trying to say.
On your carb you will notice what appears to be another accelerator pump close to the valve cover side towards the front. it has a larger diameter vacuum tube going to it (or not) This is a constant vacuum port for that useless emission crap. The inside has a diaphragm which looks almost like an accelerator pump diaphragm which rotts and when it rotts, it draws vacuum through the bottom where it is exposed to the atmosphere, right through the large hole in the bottom of the housing. Even if you plug the vacuum tube with a cap, it will do no good, because you will still have a vacuum leak right through the bottom of the housing. And the kicker is if you buy a carb rebuild kit, this is the one item that does NOT come with the carb kit. Now aint that a crapper.