Ok. I've got the drive shaft nearly apart but i need a socket large enough for the flange nut that holds the yoke to the front shaft. Q1) What size socket is needed, 32 mm?
Q2) On pg 24-1 of the IAP manual,TORQUE SPECIFICATION it describes the "flange nut, yoke to support..." at the top of the chart, and "Nut, sleeve to shaft..." at the bottom. I presume the bottom one is the big nut referenced in Q1 as the torque is 69 ft. lbs. same as the text on pg 24-8. But what nut are they referring to at the top of the chart?
Drive shaft yoke nut
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- Posts: 548
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- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Drive shaft yoke nut
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
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- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Drive shaft yoke nut
I just did a u-joint and bearing change. I think it was 27mm when I put the guage on it. I had a 1 1/16 that was snug and a 1 1/8 that was loose but managed to get it to torque
Not sure about #2
Not sure about #2
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
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- Posts: 548
- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Re: Drive shaft yoke nut plus another Question
Thanks narfire,
I bought a 1-1/16 six-point socket because it fit better than the 27mm twelve-point (27mm six-point not readily available)it worked fine.
I am sorely disappointed with the in-body of U-joint style Zerk placement. It hits the yoke, restricting movement. I tried 2 brands, one from Vick's the other from NAPA. NO GO. Maybe the shaft will never be at that exact rotation and that exact angle. But what if it is when I hit a pothole. The yoke was engineered to move freely.
Now I have to look for sealed or in-cap style u-joints.
Next question: There is quite a bit of oil of some kind around the guibo (donut) area of the body. I can't tell if it is slung from the seal the guibo goes against (plenty all overit) or leaking from above at the little plate under the shifter assembly.
I bought a 1-1/16 six-point socket because it fit better than the 27mm twelve-point (27mm six-point not readily available)it worked fine.
I am sorely disappointed with the in-body of U-joint style Zerk placement. It hits the yoke, restricting movement. I tried 2 brands, one from Vick's the other from NAPA. NO GO. Maybe the shaft will never be at that exact rotation and that exact angle. But what if it is when I hit a pothole. The yoke was engineered to move freely.
Now I have to look for sealed or in-cap style u-joints.
Next question: There is quite a bit of oil of some kind around the guibo (donut) area of the body. I can't tell if it is slung from the seal the guibo goes against (plenty all overit) or leaking from above at the little plate under the shifter assembly.
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
Re: Drive shaft yoke nut
get the u-joint from Autozone. The zerk fitting is on the bearing end, away from everything.
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- Posts: 548
- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH