the death of an alternator

[mipstien]

I went to start the car after checking all my light wiring last week and low and behold battery dead, np right just jump it. so we jump it and let it run for a bit to check the wiring while its running and realize all the lights are really dim. so we begin to check the voltage at battery, 10v. then i decide to check the voltage at the alternator and its only 7v give or take a little. soooo basically my alternator went kaput. not sure if it was ever good or not cause we didn't do much driving and had a fresh charged battery when we bought it. battery wasn't new just charged. anyways where is the best place to buy an alternator. are the ones from autozone/advance/oreilly's (bosch acdelco) good to use?

[jimincalif]

An alternator has to have a field current to charge, and to get this current power is supplied to the voltage regulator thru the dreaded ignition switch and its white connector block. I don't have my wiring diagrams handy right now, you should verify that there is power at that wire at the alternator before pronouncing it DOA. In my car the headlights suddenly went off (parking stayed on) and the alternator light on the dash lit up,and the alternator stopped charging. As soon as I tapped the white connector block it started working again and the lights came back on. I cleaned the connectors there and it has been good since.

[mipstien]

any pictures of where this white wire is? i have a wiring diagram but haven't looked at it yet.

[mipstien]

alternator wiring diagram. which wire might this 'white' wire be and if someone can get a picture of the actual place this wire connects up i'd appreciate that too.

[jimincalif]

No pics, sorry. There is a white plastic connector block that joins the ignition switch to the car's wiring harness. This is where mine had a poor connection.

On the Brad Artigue 1980-82 wiring diagram I have, it shows a light blue/red wire coming off the connector block (along with a light blue going to headlight switch). The lt blue/red goes to the #2 fuse in the fuse block. on the same side of the fuse a lt blue/pink or lt blue/black (diagram has both colors listed) wire goes to the tach for the charge light, then a black violet comes from the tach to the voltage regulator. so look for the black/violet coming to the back of the alternator (not the big positive wire post that connects to the starter motor post). This wire should be hot only when the key is on. If it is then the problem is likely with the alternator/regulator. If not the problem may be one of the connections between there and the ignition. Should not be the ignition switch itself if the headlights work since the diagram shows them on the same switch terminal.

I don't recall the year of your car, mine in a 1980, my wiring diagram says 80-82, so YMMV.

[jimincalif]

Just saw your post of the diagram, same as mine. Not a white wire, the black/violet from alternator to tach light.

[mipstien]

ok so i think i figured out the problem... nothing is connected correctly... sad sad sad
basically my alternator isn't a fiat specific alternator. anyways i have the right type of alternator but need the wires correctly connected to make it charge so if anyone has a picture of there alternator with its wires connected clearly i would be very appreciative to see it. a few pictures of possibly different alternators would be nice. mine was apparently hooked up like it shoulda been a self exciting alternator... and its not ... blah

[So Cal Mark]

if it's not the right alternator, post a pic of what you have

[mipstien]

the 3rd one i just highlighted the lettering on the alternator.
it is the hitachi one (2nd) its a 14231 alternator.

[mipstien]

i just started thinking, this alternator doesn't put out enough amps for my car. pretty sure its a 35amp alternator....
although half of my electrics aren't running because everything is pulled out.

[baltobernie]

The 55 or 65A self-regulated Bosch alternators found on later-model Spiders are durable, easily rebuilt, and available. Threads abound with installation instructions on earlier Spiders with external regulator. Plenty of output for normal cars. If you've installed a Death Ray, etc. there are threads relating to the Ford 95A alternator; Escort, I think.

[mipstien]

what does the SL and E stand for? compared to the current alternators in our cars?

[mipstien]

well i figured out my problem.
L = exciter connection
so i just had to run a wire directly from L to battery and im gettin 14v charge now.
YAY! but i realized what most of my problem was. my car has a regulator and wires are running through it and this alternator obviously has a regulator built into it. so it seems that my battery charge light won't work until i run a new wire.

[mdrburchette]

Your charge light goes to the exciter wire. If your alternator has an internal regulator, bypass your external but make sure you have the exciter wire going to the charge light relay on the left fender well, then to the charge light.

[mipstien]

Your charge light goes to the exciter wire. If your alternator has an internal regulator, bypass your external but make sure you have the exciter wire going to the charge light relay on the left fender well, then to the charge light.

you type this but don't give a reason? does it force the battery to drain if not hooked up this way?