Ignition problems
Ignition problems
I just recieved my new ignition installed it today. The problem is that the fuel pump runs constantly at any key position but there could be other problems unknown to me (It does run smoothly once started). The old factory one has 8 prongs and this new one has 6. I've used 2 wiring diagrams haynes and brad artigues problem with brad's is its for as 77 and i have a 76. Im not sure what to do other than send this one back and try another. Any ideas?
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- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Re: Ignition problems
I would be asking the vendor for information or looking at the wiring diagrams you have available to find the prong that is only activated when the key is turned to the on position.
1972 124 Spider (Don)
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
Re: Ignition problems
Where can i find a correct ignition for my 76 all the ones ive seen and bought are for mechanical fuel pumps having 6 terminals instead of my electric fuel pump which has 8 terminals. I guess i could wire it up with one of those lada ignitions with a fuel pump kill switch since it runs non stop when hooked up to that ignition no matter where the key is. Thanks
Re: Ignition problems
The pump isn't wired directly to your ignition. It's switched by your multi-relay. That is triggered by the air flow meter. If there was no trouble before the new ignition switch, then start with it. Call the people you purchased it from and get them to e-mail you the correct wiring. Follow the instructions. Guessing could blow fuses or melt wires.
Re: Ignition problems
76s are carbed, not FI so there isn't a dual relay for the pump
Re: Ignition problems
My mistake. My brain just went to to the EFI systems and their system.
Get the wiring diagram for your ignition switch
Get the wiring diagram for your ignition switch
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- Posts: 1278
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
- Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
- Location: Aiken, SC
Re: Ignition problems
On a 76 with an electric fuel pump the pump should not intially run when you first switch the key on (unless there is residual oil pressure, more on this in a sec). When you go to "crank" it completes a path for power from the ign. switch to the pump to allow it to run to get the car started. THEN a switch senses oil presuure build up and allows for power from the fuel pump relay (a single relay NOT to be confused with the FI car's dual relay) to maintain the power to the pump, provided the ign. switch is on and the oil pressure remains. If your pump is running continuously it may simply be that the oil pressure sensor has faiked closed. The sensor is SEPARATE from the one that feeds the guage / oil pressure light so that coming on and then clearing after start doesn't tell you if the sensor for the pump relay is working or not.
Do you have wiring diagrams for the 76? I am about to take ownership of one so I found them. If you need them PM me.
Do you have wiring diagrams for the 76? I am about to take ownership of one so I found them. If you need them PM me.
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
Re: Ignition problems
The oil pressure sensor is brand new and im not sure that the pressure has anything to do with the fuel pump. My pump has always run when the key is on the ON position or turned to crank the engine over but never when in the off position like it is now with the new (lada) ignition. And I have tried using a wiring diagram which is correct for all the cranking wires. I might just wire in a kill switch on the fuel pump but would rather have it stock.
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- Posts: 1278
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
- Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
- Location: Aiken, SC
Re: Ignition problems
Well, according to the wiring diagrams it shouldn't run unless you are in "on" or "cranking". Also the wiring definitley shows a tie with an oil pressure sensor. In theroy if you lose oil pressure while in run the relay should de-energize killing the fuel pump and stopping (and thereby minimizing damage to) you engine. This is NOT the same as the sendor that controls the guage / idiot ;ight. Thereis a separate one for the FP relay. BUT, what you describe is definitely NOT correct. It certainly shouldn't run when in "off". Clearly the current switch / wiring has the hot feed to the ign. switch routing to the FP all the time; and most likely via the "cranking" path versus the running path as I doubt the relay is picking up without oil pressure.
Try this, locate the FP relay under the hood. With the FP running in the "off" position pull the ground wire on the relay and see if the pump still runs. That will tell us which power supply (relay or cranking) is making the pump run. You'll need to know this anyway to wire your manual kill.
Try this, locate the FP relay under the hood. With the FP running in the "off" position pull the ground wire on the relay and see if the pump still runs. That will tell us which power supply (relay or cranking) is making the pump run. You'll need to know this anyway to wire your manual kill.
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12