PO worked but, still had to bang it out with brass punch and BFH. (my favorite tool in my toolbox )

Before and after

I thought I was done with the right rear control arm/hub/brakes assembly but, as I was putting on some finishing touches, i noticed the flexible joint seemed offset. I looked closer and noticed that it is sitting at an angle, not much just barely noticeable. but, when i put the axle shaft on and spin the wheel shaft, the offset is very noticeable. (About 1 inch circle)
Gonna have to tear it apart and try again.
I might have tweaked the wheel shaft when I banged it out.

I will post this on a maintenance thread as well to get advice.

I've been busy and so haven't had a chance to post more often.
Here's my late January project.
I removed steering rods, gear, and box. and cleaned everything but, I need to open up the gear and rebuild it. First I gotta order the parts.
I did come across and issue with the tie rod ends. They are very dificult to rotate. I have them soaking in lubricating oil, hopefully this solves the problem.

Here are some before and during pics (cleaned, rebuilt pics will come sooon)

I would suggest new tie rods as they are not that much and would be a much better option then trying to free them up. Great work so far!

Good luck with your project. I am really enjoying following your posts. My car was restored by the PO. He was also a Diesel mechanic, trained in the AIr Force I beleive, now working in purchasing. In 71 I had just bought a 124 sport coupe. I was out at the Presidio in San Francisco when I heard a car coming up the hill. I turned to see a two-toned red/black 850 spider come over the hill, top down. The two guys in the car had the biggest smiles on their faces as they drove by. I knew then I should have bought a spider. It took almost 30 years to get one.

Thanks for the encouraging comments. Some days it is tough to continue but, encouraging comments and visual progress go a long way. Yesterday was a tough day; braking rusty bolt after rusty bolt from lights, bumpers, gauges. And, looking at the dry rotted wiring didn't help. So I turned on some music, ignored the negativity in my head, and removed steering wheel assy, instrument cluster, labeled/numbered wiring harness and started on steering knuckle. I forgot to take pics yesterday and it is raining today. Next chance I get I will post the pics.

A note about being a diesel mechanic, I am stalling/putting off the carburetor part of the restoration. I don't get it. Too many little working parts. I'll just set it aside until I can no longer ignore it. I understand the distributor, spark plugs, points, timing but, cringe at the thought of the carburetor.


Thanks
Sandra

Don't worry the Carb is pretty simple. Main thing is to disassemble and clean out all the passages. Then put the jets back in the right spot, new needle seat and set the float height. New gaskets and your ready to go. If you really don't want to go to the trouble Im sure there is a carb shop that would rebuild it cheap for you in the city your in. Otherwise send it up to me and Ill do it for you.

Brian

SLOSpider wrote:I would suggest new tie rods as they are not that much and would be a much better option then trying to free them up. Great work so far!

I'm gonna wait it out a little ( i've got nothing but time right now) while they soak. If that doesn't work i will have to buy new. Keeping my fingers crossed.

SLOSpider wrote:Don't worry the Carb is pretty simple. Main thing is to disassemble and clean out all the passages. Then put the jets back in the right spot, new needle seat and set the float height. New gaskets and your ready to go. If you really don't want to go to the trouble Im sure there is a carb shop that would rebuild it cheap for you in the city your in. Otherwise send it up to me and Ill do it for you.

This is why i love this site. So many helpful people; from Jay lending out his flaring kit, to Brian offering his skills with my carb. Great site to be a part of.

Thanks Brian!!! I let you know when I decide what to do with the carb.

I have good news and bad news. I am no longer unemployed. This is both the good and bad. The bad: I will no longer be able to work on my 850 on an almost daily basis The good: I will have more money to buy the parts I need.
I have a week before I start my new job. I will get the most work I can on the 850 before my week is up.

Today I removed the steering column, the dash and gutted the electrical wiring out of the dash. (I missed the wiring to the heater/air unit so wiring harness not completely out).




I started to pull the carpet to remove the wiring to the engine bay but seat was in the way. I'm not ready to remove the seats yet. I find that working on the interior is easier with the seats still in. I might be able to get to the seats tomorrow

Damn work getting in the way of playing with cars. I know it all too well. Congrats on the JOB!

pulled just about everything from cab. Just need tunnel stuff, pedals, and 1 convertible top bolt stripped (needs to be cut off)

Pictures look like rust spots on rear cross bars and wheel wells but, it is just foam from the upholstery. Looks like PO rivited piece of metal to rear floor pans both sides, doesn't look like rust, I think I will have to remove to double check.


I am pleasently surprised the only rust I found on the floor pans ,so far, is on the passenger side near wheel well.



still haven't completely pulled the wiring harness

Latest update:Question posted on Everything 850 Topics

Last part to be removed before starting body work on my 850.
I'm and having trouble dropping the tank. in trying to drop the tank, looking at my manual (no pics) and researching I still don't get it.
Do I have to remove top body panel (yellow arrow) to get to the filler hose or do I just remove rubber piece (red arrow)on filler tube?
(I tried to remove latches (green arrow) but they are slightly stripped and awkwardly angled that I can't get a good hold on the screws with a screw driver. I don't want to mess with latches if I don't have to).

Tank is out.
1st, I removed 2 straps from underneath, holding tank in place.
Then, I loosened the tank from the side walls (it was held up by foam pad on side walls) by prying the tank forward and backward with a heavy duty screwdriver from underneath.
Next, I pushed down the grommet/rubber seal holding filler tube in place.
Then, I worked the filler tube past a shaft, lined with foam pad, with a regular screw driver.
Next, I worked the tank back and forth inching it down. until it dropped.


I removed a couple of other small things: coolant hoses, fuel hoses, straggling wires.

I am ready for body work
I'm not doing it myself. I need to look around for someone to do the body and paint for me.
Any recommendations in the East San Diego area?

Good job! I never tore apart and 850 so Im no help. Paint and body work is never fun trying to find someone that can do it for a reasonable price. Sometime craigslist have people that will do it. Id recommend seeing some of their work first.

Hello all, I am back. I was discouraged by the comments the body shops were telling me when asking about body work. They pretty much wanted to replace all the panels instead of fabricating pieces where the rust had eaten through the metal. Or the pricing was ridiculous. And, I did not find a mobile sand blaster to take a day and blast the rust. So I stopped working on the car. After almost 2 years sitting and collecting dirt, my husband told me to part the car out, but I can't do it. So, I researched the internet, and my husband brought home an Eastwood catalog for paint and body products. I bought some paint and rust wheels, PRE Painting Prep, Rust Encapsulator, and primer. And went to work on the body. So I am back. Will post pics soon.