rjkoop wrote:That buffing job is amazing. What's the materials and process you used?

Thanks!! I use Maguirar’s buffing and polishing compounds and CSS pads; more details below. If the paint is well seasoned and has significant orange peel I will wet sand the flat areas using 1200- 1500 grit paper first. I forwarn you though it is easy to sand trough the paint, especially cheaply done clear coats.

Meguiar’s compounds and CSS pads combinations:
Buffing and Polishing

• 1. Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85 with CSS’s purple wool pad (LC-58-4265) Many online store are hesitant to sell this, both the compound and pad, to newbies as they can easily burn through the paint, orbital sander will reduce the likely hood but will also slow down your work in comparison to a circular sander.
  2. Next CSS Orange pad (LC-78-24650DA) and Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85 applied with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander
  3. Next CSS White Pad (LC-78-64650DA) and Meguiar’s 105 applied with orbital sander with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander (I do not recommend the circular sander as it can leave swirl marks)
  4. Next CSS Gray Pad (LC-78-74650DA) and Meguiar’s 205 and then applied with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander (I do not recommend the circular sander as it can leave swirl marks)

Waxing

• 1. Poly or synthetic based wax I use Red CSS Pad (LC-78-14650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove (used on this Car)
  OR
  1. Carnauba based wax I use Gold CSS Pad (LC-78-44650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove

A good source for these products and a good D/A orbital sander is http://www.autogeek.net/. They can also talk to you about different pads if you plan to use a circular sander. I use a Harbor Freight orbital but I would preffer the Porter Cable. Also I have tried pads as big as 8" but with orbitals I suggest 6.5". The bigger pads lose their circular motion to easily.

Exellent job on the paint! Could we see a pic of the whole car ?

Clutch continuation: I upload a video to see if you all think my pedal and cable are moving enough to fully engaging the throw out bearing. I do but I still cannot get it unseized.

Appreciated Clutch Input:

bobplyler wrote:Sometimes my clutch will freeze (slight rust to flywheel/pressure plate). What I do is jack up the rear end, start it in gear, press in the clutch, then put on the brakes. It breaks the clutch loose every time.

I guess I could try this but I do not see how having it on stands improves the ability of the engine to break free the clutch. I just see additional risk. I am not disagreeing with him, just trying to get a better understanding of the advantage of trying to break the clutch free on jack stands verses driving on the road.
If I no new ideas roll in I will try his approach and if it doesn’t work order and install a new clutch kit. If I am tearing it down I might as well replace everything while I am in there.

Also I think I the gears in my wiper motor are shoot. The wipers will run and then stick but the motor does not sound loaded down. If I give them a push they work for a second or two and stop again. The linkage is very smooth and moves very easily. I looked online at Auto Ricambi, VAS and IAP to see if I could just buy the gear but no one appears to sell it. I assume I need to order the motor assembly. Frustrating as the gear seemed fine before I tore it apart; I probably broke it when I disassembled the linkage.

Later this week I will post some additional pictures of the paint. I did put some additional effort on the hood, wet sanding and additional polishing. The rest will be redone with time but they too look much better than a month ago.

jimj wrote:

rjkoop wrote:That buffing job is amazing. What's the materials and process you used?

Thanks!! I use Maguirar’s buffing and polishing compounds and CSS pads; more details below. If the paint is well seasoned and has significant orange peel I will wet sand the flat areas using 1200- 1500 grit paper first. I forwarn you though it is easy to sand trough the paint, especially cheaply done clear coats.

Meguiar’s compounds and CSS pads combinations:
Buffing and Polishing

• 1. Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85 with CSS’s purple wool pad (LC-58-4265) Many online store are hesitant to sell this, both the compound and pad, to newbies as they can easily burn through the paint, orbital sander will reduce the likely hood but will also slow down your work in comparison to a circular sander.
  2. Next CSS Orange pad (LC-78-24650DA) and Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85 applied with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander
  3. Next CSS White Pad (LC-78-64650DA) and Meguiar’s 105 applied with orbital sander with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander (I do not recommend the circular sander as it can leave swirl marks)
  4. Next CSS Gray Pad (LC-78-74650DA) and Meguiar’s 205 and then applied with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander (I do not recommend the circular sander as it can leave swirl marks)

Waxing

• 1. Poly or synthetic based wax I use Red CSS Pad (LC-78-14650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove (used on this Car)
  OR
  1. Carnauba based wax I use Gold CSS Pad (LC-78-44650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove

A good source for these products and a good D/A orbital sander is http://www.autogeek.net/. They can also talk to you about different pads if you plan to use a circular sander. I use a Harbor Freight orbital but I would preffer the Porter Cable. Also I have tried pads as big as 8" but with orbitals I suggest 6.5". The bigger pads lose their circular motion to easily.

This is what my paint looks like. Hopefully I can improve the shine. When you guys refer to orange peel, is that what my paint has?

rjkoop wrote:

jimj wrote:

rjkoop wrote:That buffing job is amazing. What's the materials and process you used?

Thanks!! I use Maguirar’s buffing and polishing compounds and CSS pads; more details below. If the paint is well seasoned and has significant orange peel I will wet sand the flat areas using 1200- 1500 grit paper first. I forwarn you though it is easy to sand trough the paint, especially cheaply done clear coats.

Meguiar’s compounds and CSS pads combinations:
Buffing and Polishing

• 1. Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85 with CSS’s purple wool pad (LC-58-4265) Many online store are hesitant to sell this, both the compound and pad, to newbies as they can easily burn through the paint, orbital sander will reduce the likely hood but will also slow down your work in comparison to a circular sander.
  2. Next CSS Orange pad (LC-78-24650DA) and Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85 applied with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander
  3. Next CSS White Pad (LC-78-64650DA) and Meguiar’s 105 applied with orbital sander with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander (I do not recommend the circular sander as it can leave swirl marks)
  4. Next CSS Gray Pad (LC-78-74650DA) and Meguiar’s 205 and then applied with orbital sander but I know some people use circular sander (I do not recommend the circular sander as it can leave swirl marks)

Waxing

• 1. Poly or synthetic based wax I use Red CSS Pad (LC-78-14650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove (used on this Car)
  OR
  1. Carnauba based wax I use Gold CSS Pad (LC-78-44650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove

A good source for these products and a good D/A orbital sander is http://www.autogeek.net/. They can also talk to you about different pads if you plan to use a circular sander. I use a Harbor Freight orbital but I would preffer the Porter Cable. Also I have tried pads as big as 8" but with orbitals I suggest 6.5". The bigger pads lose their circular motion to easily.

This is what my paint looks like. Hopefully I can improve the shine. When you guys refer to orange peel, is that what my paint has?

did you use single stage or BC/CC paint ?

yes, what you have is classic orange peel. The only way to eliminate it is sanding it flat. If the car is clear coated, it is easy to sand thru the clear coat. If this happens, you get to paint again. If you painted a single stage you need to make sure you dont sand to the primer. You may want to try a compound and polish on a section without sanding and see how it come out. Many new vehicles have some orange peel and gloss up fine. You just dont get that mirror reflection. Actually some of my favorite paint jobs had just a hint of orange peel. It gave the car a little shimmer.

About stuck clutches, There is this info:
http://www.international-auto.com/afla- ... utches.cfm

You have orange peel and acid rain damage for sure it also appears there maybe chemical stains, and mild oxidations. You can get rid of the mild oxidation, acid rain completely or are at least nearly completely. Any staining from chemicals or leaving something metallic on the paint for a long time can cause penetrating stains that cannot be buffed out.



Orange peel is exactly what it sounds like. The paint surface is like an orange with small circular bumps all over it. Wet sanding and cutting compounds are the way I remove orange peel but be careful or you can burn or remove all the paint. Leaving some of the orange peel is wise. A orbital or D/A sander does not work so good for cutting compounds a circular sander is better but you can BURN AND REMOVE TOO MUCH PAINT EASILY.

As I am a hobbyist and not a pro I am going to refer you to these links so you can decide which tools you want to use and are aware of the associated risk. Also clean your car thoroughly first as dirt will scratch your paint.
Car Washing: http://www.autogeek.net/exterior.html
D/A Orbital Polishing: http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html
Circular Cutting and Polishing:
http://www.autogeek.net/buffer-polisher.html
http://www.autogeek.net/rotary-polishin ... guide.html
Wet Sanding:
http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-remove-scratches.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6h2_jZkhNjc Note the pro’s measure the paint thickness to help assure they will not remove too much.

Sorry I did not attach the stain photo as my flash kept making it impossible to see.

Did a good wash of the car. Doesn't look bad but of course still orange peel.

I find a clay bar makes a big difference as well.

After clay bar (right side)

4uall wrote:I find a clay bar makes a big difference as well.

even a bigger diff on white

My car had a little Orange Peel as well I wet sanded and buffed it.


Untitled by fiatcs2000, on Flickr

Untitled by fiatcs2000, on Flickr

Untitled by fiatcs2000, on Flickr

Untitled by fiatcs2000, on Flickr

Untitled by fiatcs2000, on Flickr

Untitled by fiatcs2000, on Flickr

Here is the deal. Take some 1500 grit wet / dry sand paper take a bucket of water dip your paper in it, take a water hose slow flow wet the area your are going too sand and rinse the area after you sand it . Then start sanding take one of those plastic putty scraper that is used to apply bondo with scrap the water off, you can see if there is any Orange Peel once you remove the water. If orange peel still exist repeat the process. Just be-careful not too apply too much pressure that you sand down too the primer. Do the whole that way. Then Buff and polish it and wax it. Its not that bad just takes time. Do not be shock when you see how dual that paint looks, It will shine back. What paint did you use ? BC/CC ? Or a single stage? I prefer a single stage paint cause the clear is already in the paint....

If you feel that you can not so this take it too a professorial detail shop they do this sort of thing.


Rodman

rodman wrote:Here is the deal. Take some 1500 grit wet / dry sand paper take a bucket of water dip your paper in it, take a water hose slow flow wet the area your are going too sand and rinse the area after you sand it . Then start sanding take one of those plastic putty scraper that is used to apply bondo with scrap the water off, you can see if there is any Orange Peel once you remove the water. If orange peel still exist repeat the process. Just be-careful not too apply too much pressure that you sand down too the primer. Do the whole that way. Then Buff and polish it and wax it. Its not that bad just takes time. Do not be shock when you see how dual that paint looks, It will shine back. What paint did you use ? BC/CC ? Or a single stage? I prefer a single stage paint cause the clear is already in the paint....

If you feel that you can not so this take it too a professorial detail shop they do this sort of thing.


Rodman

Rodman,
When I bought the car a few months ago this was the paint. Generally I'm happy with the paint condition but want to improve the shine. I can probably do the work (done minor bondo, sanding and spray painting in the past) but I'm just trying to determine what steps I should use for sprucing up this paint. So far I'm seeing...

• 1500/2000 wet sanding (if required)
  clay bar
  buffing/waxing

But I'll be real careful especially with the 1st step. And I'll have to determine if the paint has a clear coat 1st.

Richard

You can sand it and see if it has clear on it. If it does then sand anyway you can clear it after you buff it