I let it soak with some marvel mystery oil but still unable to turn it with a breaker bar. As I am going to be doing a complete tear down of this car, I will just pull the engine and trans (hopefully soon, waiting to borrow a engine puller from my brother-in-law).

I'm looking for suggestions on what to look for to determine whether or not the engine is worth a rebuild or if I should be looking for a replacement. I would also like to add some performance to the engine since I will be tearing it down anyway, so I would appreciate any suggestions on that as well.

pull the head. that is where i would start.

I got the engine torn down this weekend. I didn't have much time to do anything but take it apart. It looks like the main problems are corrosion in the 3 and 4 cylinder walls.

Whats the best way to get the pistons free? Should I pull the crank and try to get them out one at a time?

yes, i you can get them to go down, but not so far that the rings go below the cylinders, you can hone the cylinder to remove. but i it is gone that far, you will be boring the block anyway and will have to get new pistons

I'm leaning towards getting new pistons anyway. I would like to stick with the original diameter pistons and get something like this:
http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/index. ... ts_id=3759

Can I just take the pistons out of the bottom of the engine or do they have to come out the top?

They have to come out the top, they won't clear the bearing saddles going down. Ask me how I know.

if you want new high compression pistons, which i highly recommend. you will want a new bore for your build anyway, even if you could clean up the standard bore. i still would spend the money on a fresh new bore for your build. it is false economy to not bore an engine in the situation you are facing, imho

What is the next size up piston? I guessing I would buy the pistons before I bore the cylinders, is that correct? What else should I be aware of before purchasing pistons?

i would look at the bores, if they are deeply pitted i would go 84.8mm

any yes buy the pistons first

Are there any issues/concerns that might occur with the larger bore vs 84.4mm? Would it require me to buy additional items if I went with 84.8 vs 84.4?

no, the only reason i suggest going larger is if the pitting may not be cleaned up at 84.4. other than that no issues what so ever

Something like these. The ones from Vick's don't specify the dome and they don't show/list wrist pins.
http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/index. ... ts_id=3000

or these. Auto Ricambi doesn't show a 84.8mm on their site but they show rings and pins in the picture. Also the dome is 4.5.
http://www.autoricambi.us/product/EN7-4 ... RFORMANCE/

What other vendors are their?
Would either of those two sets work? Can I use my original wrist pins if they look ok?

pm sent

A little update. I got the engine to turn over by hand not. Still going to replace the pistons and bore the cylinders but that's a good sign.

Would it be wise to replace the crankshaft and rod bearings even if the look fine? I haven't pulled the pan yet so I don't know the condition.

JayJeep wrote:Would it be wise to replace the crankshaft and rod bearings even if the look fine?

yeup, change them and the thrust washer. Just remember the orientation on the thrust washer(groves) so the new ones goe in the same way.