damaged block!!! :(

[131]

Your thinking here is backwards. Or maybe in-side-out.

I don't think so. What's the point of buying 80.4 pistons if the block is already 80.6 with a stuffed bore. Whether the machinist measures it or the owner, it has to be measured before buying pistons.

[sshanky]

I just talked to the machinist, who says he has a 1 year old, $55,000 machine, and can do any size. I don't know how deep, but he says he can measure that. I am a bit unsure now of what to do. My plan was to have him tell me whether 80.4 would be enough. If not, I would look for the next size of piston available. However, my mechanic says I can't go to 80.8, that 80.6 is the furthest. I see Vick has some of these: http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/index. ... ts_id=3775 .. are these good quality, or the cheap chinese stuff?

On the other hand, I could just order these, and bring them to the machinist, right? I'm sure that's deep enough for the loss I have in the cylinder.

[TimpanogosSlim]

Your thinking here is backwards. Or maybe in-side-out.

I don't think so. What's the point of buying 80.4 pistons if the block is already 80.6 with a stuffed bore. Whether the machinist measures it or the owner, it has to be measured before buying pistons.

I think we're actually on the same page.

The machinist has to determine if there is enough meat for pistons, and if so, what size pistons.

[azruss]

When I started on my car, #3 and #4 cylinders had corrosion. I went to my mechanic neighbor who suggested just leaving them and see how the car does. My valves looked like yours. I did a valve job and we replaced the guides and seals. I haven't done a compression check since i put the car together, but I burn no oil and the car runs great. My first 124 was a 1438 and you had to rev the piss out of it to get anywhere. I replaced it with a carbed 2L and loved the change. I don't take my engines up past 6k and usually not much past 5k rpms, so a "stroker" with good mid-range is the kind of motor i want and the 2L fits the bill perfectly. So your decision on the motor should be made on the kind of driving you intend to do when the car is done.

[sshanky]

My mechanic said the damage was letting pressure go below the piston, pressurizing the lower area, and forcing oil out the dipstick. It is indeed always wet. I don't do a lot of serious driving, I don't mind a little bit of imperfection. But I guess it would be dumb to just put it back together after getting it this far open. The machinist quoted $20 a hole and the pistons are $350. Seems a mistake not to do that.

[garion]

I'm selling a 78 with a 1.8L just south of Phoenix (maricopa actually) if you're interested. Its a 1.8L, 2.0L head, and a 1.8L intake. Not the best combo, but it does run pretty good. PM if interested.

[131]

Seems a mistake not to do that.

Or do this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fiat-131-1-6 ... 25a217668b

Can't be too many of them left lying around.

[sshanky]

That thing is gorgeous...

[sshanky]

Hi again, everyone.

I got the block to the machinist today. we learned that the bores are already 80.6mm (3.171 to 3.173 in, since his gauges were in inches). The pistons measured 80.6 roughly with a manual caliper.

I'm on a budget and I am learning about the other issues with the car, and don't think it's worth putting a huge amount of money in, so I decided that I should let the machinist sleeve the bad cylinder and bore it to 80.6, leave the others alone, and keep my pistons, which my mechanic says are high compression performance and in good condition.

My mechanic wants me to order new 80.6mm rings, .10 main bearings, .20 rod bearings, and a gasket set.

Sound like a good plan for me? Also, what size should I direct the machinist to bore the hole to? I think it should be exactly the same as the other holes, but the machinist told me that his measurements ranged from 3.171 to 3.173. 3.173 is 80.6mm. He says that extra 0.002 in the 3.171 cylinder will cause oil burn and smoke.

Thanks!

[baltobernie]

Working with a good machine shop is like employing a good physician; if they pass the "sniff test", let them decide the specifics. You yourself are probably very knowledgeable about a particular topic; your profession, perhaps. How would you like it if a civilian said to you, "I hear what you're recommending, but I heard on the Internet ...".

Remember my post about "mission creep"? You're now at $2k for a short block, and could've bought a 2L EFI motor (complete) for that. You're not going to put that old oil pump back in your new engine are you? Etc.

[sshanky]

ok, that is what I will do. I went to see the machinist, who had the block already, but my mechanic had not dropped off the pistons. So we were trying to measure the previous hole and match it with a sleeve. But I called my mechanic and asked him to bring the pistons to the machinist and I'll have them use them to do it.

The cost is going to be about $150 for the sleeve and bore for that cylinder.

I'll let you know how things go. Thanks for all the input.

[sshanky]

Hey everyone, just an update. It's been a long time -- the car was stored for the summer and I'm getting things done now. I found an awesome machinist in Surprise, AZ, not far from Phoenix, and he has the block. I'm about to buy 4 80.8mm pistons and he has confirmed that he can do those bores. He charges under $20 a hole and has a lot of nice equipment. I'll let you know how it goes. Just have to decide on which pistons to get. Vick has some new ones that seem bright and shiny, but are probably chinese, and there are a set of new dark metal ones that look older and are cheaper by $100. Anyone have any new 80.8's they want to sell?

[sshanky]

Hi everyone,

8 months later and the cylinders are done, the pistons are ready, finally brought all the engine parts to the engine machine shop where we were going to rebuild it, and I realized in the parts I had (mechanic put them all in the car and trunk) there was no crankshaft. I can't find it and calling him only revealed that he has no idea where it is. My fault for waiting too long to look at all the parts.

So, now I come humbly searching for anyone who might have a crankshaft for a 1438cc engine (124 AC 040) that they could part with.

If so, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks a lot!

[BammBamm]

I would go for a 2L engine. The swap is pretty easy if you use a FI 2000 engine because of the head. Stay away from all the EGR crap. Im also in phoenix.

[sshanky]

Hi Bill

Thanks for the post. I wouldn't mind, but the thing is that I've invested a lot into this engine, just had it bored, bought pistons, rings, and also since the past post, found and bought a crankshaft, which should arrive at my engine guy's shop soon.

I'll PM you. Would love to get in touch