Stalls while driving???[SOLVED]

[ekstrandt]

Gas cap off did not help still stalled. I was really hoping that was the problem. RPM's in the 4-5000 range when she stalled twice. 76was124
What are you thinking with higher RPMs? I will tell you the coil and ignition module were replaced last year and has run fine till now. Pick-up coil in distributor properly gapped but not replaced. New cap, rotor and wires all have less than 10,000 miles and are less than 2 years old.

[76was124]

Only once while idling,

Was it warm when that happened? If it's not gas tank venting related, maybe the coil or ignition module is over heating?

[ekstrandt]

Yesterday was the worst, it stalled every few miles. Stalled before getting to temp and while hot. I guess I will just have to disassemble and replace fuel evap system and ignition system. I hate throwing parts/ money at something

[76was124]

you might want to first figure out (if you haven't) is it "No Fuel" or "No Spark" ... I had an intermittent problem which I was sure was no spark.. but a can of starter fluid confirmed otherwise rather easily.

When in a no start condition, I opened the boot at the throttle plate end, gave it a quick squirt inside while holding the throttle open, closed the boot back up, sat in the car, pedal to the floor and it started right up, then died. My problem was FI pulse related.

[sptcoupe]

Have you checked the fuel filter? It also could be crud in the gas tank that gets sucked up and blocks the outlet until the car is stopped and it settles.

[azruss]

your coolant temp sensor was probably ok and the problem is with the wire and socket that plugs into the sensor. AR carries replacement pigtails that can be spliced into the existing wire. As a test, start the car and wiggle that wire and see if it will stall.

[ekstrandt]

Fuel tank was clean with no crud or rust particles last year, I will have to check again. Pigtail to coolant sensor is good, wiggles do not affect it, connections were replaced last year and are still tight. I have a new pick up coil, coil and ignition module coming. Rotor looks good, multimeter says it has the correct ohms. Cap and rotor are both only 2 years, 10,000 mi old. Timing was dead on, vacuum advance works, mechanical advance appears to work. I'll let you guys know what happens when I install the new parts. Thanks for the help/ ideas so far.

[bluespider262]

The my first spider had a cracked fuel line in the cab that would sometimes suck enough air to cause the engine to stall. Real intermittent too...I could drive around one day for hours and not have the issue, then another day it would die on me a couple of times. When it died it would be difficult to start, but it always would eventually. After a carb rebuild and fuel tank inspection turned up nothing, I bypassed the line from tank to carb with a long temporary hose ran under the body...and didn't have the issue anymore after several days.

Wasn't until I removed the hardline from the cab to make things permanent that I could see the bad spot. I sometimes would catch a brief whiff of gas but I figured it was just one of the normal "Fiat smells", and not the line next to my feet seeping fuel through a pinhole.

Good luck - intermittent issues are the worst.

[RRoller123]

After reading back through all this, I think the next thing I would advise to do, since the temp sensor wiring is assumed good, is to pull the coolant temp sensor and actually test it in boiling water. Just don't put it in a potable container, or if you do, don't ever use that one again for cooking after it is in there.

[76was124]

. I have a new pick up coil, coil and ignition module coming.

Pick up coil being intermittent would likely show a jumpy tach at times when driving. Could cause a loss of injector pulse though too ( I think )

Did you ever have a no start opportunity to determine no fuel or no spark? It might save some $ and time.

[124JOE]

do you ever smell gas inside the car?

[ekstrandt]

No gas smell, hardline through the cabin removed and inspected when interior was redone (rusty floorboards fixed, welder and fuel lines do not mix ), all the rubber lines replaced. I checked the ohms on the coolant temp sensor both cold and hot 180F by my trusty IR thermometer. Within specs at both temps. as per the hiperformancestore guidance IMHO a great additional guide for the l-jetronic (alfa specific but the parts are the same). I wish I could reproduce the stall in the driveway on command to determine spark or fuel but even if I could 10 seconds is not much time to do any checks. Still need to check the tank for debris. I think that fits but how it could be I don't know. Anyhow I'll check it before I replace the parts in the ignition. I'll do them one at a time to try and determine what the problem is. Again thanks guys and keep the ideas coming.

[RRoller123]

If the AFM connection comes loose the car will stall immediately. This one is easy to reproduce. Double check that the connection is made and tight? This is not a locking connector, which I always have thought is odd. The design would benefit from 2 spring clips, one on each side to hold it in position.

[124JOE]

my car is not FI but can you wrap tape around it to hold it together?

[ekstrandt]

My AFM is a regular Bosch connection, you might want to invest in a metal clip. It is tight and pulling, twisting does not affect motor.
I replaced the coil with a new OEM checked with multimeter and the primary and secondary where just over the maximum by my shop manual. Could be my multimeter. Anyhow hooked it up and she ran but stalled within a half mile So went back and installed the new pick-up coil. Within specs by the mulimeter (More of a pain than it should be). Car now barely starts and is rough and I can hear the double relay clicking. WTF!! Anyone have ideas on this?