In my infinite shortsightedness...I removed both control arms from the cross member without first unbolting the 2 LARGE nuts holding both arms to the steering knuckle......so just how the hell am I going to get the leverage to remove the nuts and thus seperate the upper and lower arms.............help!

I'm also doing a 1981. Post some pics. I'd love to see them. I'm doing all my brakes and they are not coporating at the moment. I'll probably pick your brain about your interior matters at some point. First I want to get it running and stopping. Then I will attack the floor like you did. I do not have a lot of rust but I'm sure I will uncover more under that sound mat junk.

http://s839.photobucket.com/albums/zz31 ... tprogress/


some updated pics.....someone tell me how to remove the upper and lower arms from the knuckle........please..

If I were you I would try reattaching one to see if you can get the big nut off. I have no experience with control arms but will keep it in mind when I do mine.

even attached the knuckle rotates....think it is one of those things that should have been loosened when a tire was still attached and car on the ground....just loosened.

Divers wrote:In my infinite shortsightedness...I removed both control arms from the cross member without first unbolting the 2 LARGE nuts holding both arms to the steering knuckle......so just how the hell am I going to get the leverage to remove the nuts and thus seperate the upper and lower arms.............help!

bolt it back on without the spring.use a pickle fork,it may wreck it thou.joe

or leave it together and compress your spring and put it all back together.

I am replacing both upper and lower controls arms (bought the complete assemby from autoricambi)... just need the knuckle...I will figure out something.

When you have time would you measure the thickness of the control arms you bought compared to the originals? I've read that some of the new ones have thinner metal. I'm trying to decide whether to have bushings pressed into mine or buy new ones.

Measured old one near ball joint...just the lip at 0.15 inch, new one at 0.143 inch....so based on my noncalibrated calipers, they seem equal.

I just got done replaceing my control arms this weekend.
I put a big crescent wrench on the flange of the spindle after taking the shield off & the streering arm off.
Made it slide over the flat area where the bolts for the shield went thru & used it as leverage to hold the spindle while removing the ball joint nuts.
All this with the arm assemble taken off the car as a unit.
I clamped the pivot beam of the lower arm in my vise while removing the lower nut & then pickle fork'd the ball joint loose to remove the spindle from the lower arm & then clamped the upper arm itself to hold it while remove the other.(all I needed was the spindle too)

I measured the thickness of my new arms too, new .125" - originals .125"-.140" depending where I measured, so basically the same thickness less the dirt, mine are from VAS

This weekend I am replacing all the tie rods and center link. Question - all I have is a pickle fork to remove the tie rods, but as everyone knows you have to beat the pants off of them to get them off. Will all this beating hurt the rest of the steering system?

Robert

2 days to rebuild the entire front passenger side suspension......2 hours to finish the drivers side now that I know what I am doing!

WHEW!

Let's see some pics of those shiny parts installed.

Well....entire front end is done. I have the parts for the steering, but am holding off replacement just incase I decide to pull the engine and rebuild...left the sway bar off also. Rear bearings are on order and axles have been removed and cleaned. Rear shocks are changed. Entire body inside and out has been treated with Eastwood Rust Encapsulant....that extension nozzle allowed me to get inside all the areas that were not originally painted. Also, painted all the brake dust covers and caliper holders......tired.

1. How to I tell if anything in the rear end suspension is bad? Trailing arms, panhard rod etc etc. Can I replace bushings?
2. Still trying to find someone to do gauge restoration.
3. Will start working on my gt250 style dash
4. Need to rebuild all 4 calipers (actually did one of the fronts already). The rears are not coming aparts very easily!
5. Install Marks copensator bypass hose and remove compensator hardware.
6. Open up pumpkin and inspect and change lub.
7. Have a new guibo but hold off till tranny is done.

Well, that's my next couple weekends.

Wow. You're really going to town. That's awesome!