Picking up my 82 tonight!

[pooldoctorstl]

Timing belt change...
Hardest part is getting the crank pully nut off. Good impact, long extension, and a u-joint.



I also suggest you pick up a good shop manual and download the Brad Artigue manuals as well. Do a search here in the forum to find them.

[Chihua33]

Thanks Jeff!

On a side note, got her to turn over just a bit ago! except it would die right away then....I noticed a leak at the fuel filter so I'm going to have to get a new one.

I'm guessing local parts stores won't carry the right one?

[124JOE]

i never removed the nut or pulley.joe

[pooldoctorstl]

You may be able to do it without without removing the pulley on an 1800 in the 78, but the 2L motor has a lower timing cover and the pulley has to come off to get to the bolts and remove the cover. You may get lucky and a PO did a belt change and didn't put the lower cover back on because it isn't really needed. But if the lower cover is there I think you will have to remove the pulley.

Jeff

[Chihua33]

This connects to the main air intake...and there is one bolt missing that holds this on. would this cause an air leak that would keep the car from running?

[Chihua33]

I read somewhere on here that your fuel pump shouldn't be turning on when the key is on the ACC position, and mine is and for the life of me I can't find the thread where it explained what to do??

[narfire]

This connects to the main air intake...and there is one bolt missing that holds this on. would this cause an air leak that would keep the car from running?

Nope. I think that is the aux air valve. If you are having issues,that valve has been known to be an issue at times. To check,undo the hoses and remove the valve and put it in the freezer for half an hour. When you look through it, you should notice a hole about a 1/4 inch or more in diameter in the disk. When it warms up the hole should vitually close. If the car is warm and the hole does not get smaller then the valve is likely pooched and would be letting un metered air into the intake after the AFM causing not running right.
My thoughts anyway
Chris

[rlux4]

The fuel pump should only run when the engine is turning over. The way this is acheived is; power goes to the dual relay when you turn the key on then when the engine turns over air is drawn in through the AFM which opens the flap. A contact in the AFM should close which sends another signal to the dual relay which then "makes" and the 12V is sent from it to the fuel pump. The wires involved are a brown with white stripe going to the dual relay through an inline fuse (found behind the main fuse panel amongst the batch of wires there) this one is powered when the key is on, and a green with black stripe wire at the dual relay that carries the 12V to the fuel pump. A couple of wires are coming from the AFM to the dual relay but they're usually not molested. You could check the harness there to be sure. If your fuel pump comes on when the engine isn't turning over then the dual relay has been bypassed, usually with a hot wire from the key, either straight to the pump or tapped into the green with black stripe wire going to it from the dual relay. You'll find the dual relay by dropping the relay tray under the dash below the glove box.
None of this will keep your car from running though if your fuel pump is working. The dual relay's function in the system is a safety feature meant to stop the flow of gas in case of a crash that stops the engine.
Ron

[Chihua33]

Thank you Ron.

It will turn over and sputter for a second or two like it wants to idle but then it will just cut out so I'm wondering if it's just not getting enough gas or what?

[rlux4]

You can check fuel pressure easily enough with a liquid pressure tester. Take the hose off at the cold start valve (wrap a rag around the end, when you pull it off it may spray a bunch of gas if it's pressureized, which it should be) put the gauge on the hose and check the pressure with the pump running. It should read 35-40 lbs. Have you checked that the injectors are getting pulse signal? There should be two ground wires attached to the rear of the outboard side of the intake plenum, make sure they're grounded well, they are the for the injectors.
Ron

[Chihua33]

No, I haven't checked any of that.
I know very little about engines, and have just been checking things that I've seen so far that others have done on this site.
I think in the long run I'll take it into a shop somewhere, because I'm afraid I'll screw it up somehow! lol

But I am having fun learning, and at least trying myself

[124JOE]

back when i was new to these cars i also didnt want to f@#$ any thing up.
so i took it the shop to get her fixed up"and paid thru the nose"
just to watch him screw it up 3 times before getting it right.
i figure i can do that then ill know how to do most repairs myself.,now i do most of it.

and then theres the original tranz
the mecanic tore it appart and ordered parts and rebuilt it.
he didnt mention the CRACKED CASE.i drove it for 300 miles,she would get really hot,
when i got on her i heard the gears get louder.

i took it back to have it riped out!
then he says it has a cracked case.

i ended up buying a parts car and rebuilding that tranz.witch still is not quite right.joe

[rlux4]

I know what you mean Joe. I also paid a "mechanic" to change a head gasket for me. (I was up in Oregon, away from my shop.) It took me a couple of weeks to re-do everything so that it would run. There's a learning curve involved, but you'd be suprised how easy these cars are to work on (not counting starter change outs ) and with the help we get from the forum we eventually learn to do repairs ourselves and enjoy the work.
Ron

[Chihua33]

I hate being a pain in everyones butt with all of my questions but I got it "running" just a bit ago, by feathering the gas it kept running but sounded rough and started to see a little smoke coming from the passengers side of the engine I took a pic of where I think it was coming from because it looks to be oil leaking down the side of the engine.

Now I know VERY minimal about engines as this is the first car I've done work on, so I just shut it down and now I'm kind of stuck.



is this leaking from the head gasket? pic is from laying under the front right of the car.

Thanks a lot guys!

[pooldoctorstl]

Looks like the cam box gaskets are leaking. If you are going to replace them, get a timing belt too and tear it all down at once. The issues with your car are typical of a near 40 year old car that has been sitting for several years. I doubt it has any major problems but get used to these nagging little things that are not expensive parts to replace but you need to replace yourself because the labor to pay someone to do it will be way more than the car is worth.

Get a good manual, a good set of tools, installation fluid (I like Budweiser), a lot of patience, and get to work. And ask questions before you force it or break it.

Good luck,
Jeff