rjKoop, I am not use to using a clay bar as part of the buffing process, I use it when I wash a car with a good but dirty finish before waxing it. If you start wet sanding and the water turns to a light watered down milky color you have a clear coat, if it looks more like skim milk you are remove white paint. White is a harder color to distinguish from clear coat.

After wet sanding I suggest a mild cutting pad followed by a polishing pad. You can just use Meguiar’s 105 if you wish for both pads but using Diamond Cut Compound 2, also referred to as 85, with the light cutting pad will be quicker. Here are the minimum steps I would take:
1. Wash the car thoroughly, use your clay bar to help remove contaminants
2. 1500 wet sanding (if required)
3. Buff/Cutting using a light cutting pad and buffing compound: (CSS Orange pad (LC-78-24650DA) and Meguiar’s Diamond Cut 85)
4. Polish using a polishing pad and polishing compound: (CSS White Pad (LC-78-64650DA) and Meguiar’s 105)
5. Apply wax by hand or polish in using a finishing pad:
Poly or synthetic based wax I use Red CSS Pad (LC-78-14650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove
OR
Carnauba based wax I use Gold CSS Pad (LC-78-14650DA) to apply and a clean rag to remove

There are many fine products out there I just prefer Meguiar’s. Also I know this sound like an investment but the pads can be reused and the compounds go along way when used properly. A lot of compound is not required and only makes a mess. A misting water bottle is must to get the most out of your compounds. I believe Rodman was saying something similar …“Then Buff and polish it and wax it”

I did strip the spindle of my wind shield washer pump. I tried repairing it using some guerrilla glue but it only lasted about ten seconds so I will be ordering a new gear. At least this will only set me back about $60 verses over $200 for a new motor. If you ever need to replace this gear here is a picture. You must remove a very hard to see circle ring at the pointer. See below. took me forever to find it.



I also played around with cleaning one of the rims. The results just using a couple of wire wheel brushes provided better than expected results. I will pursue this further on a later date.

I just noticed my passanger seat back does not lock into position. The back of the seat can go forward during hard breaking. Does anyone now of a fix for this?

Can I verify my engine to my chasis/VIN?

The engine compartment tag "Engine Number" is 132c3.031 and the same is stamped on the block just above the oil filter assembly. Does this mean the motor is original or must additional steps be taken. I tried find out reading forum inputs but did not run into anything that was clear in fact my readings only confused me more. Can someone help me out.

On the seat there should be a lever on the side to allow you to push the seat back forward. Yours is either stuck up or broken. Youll need to take a look. The engine is the correct @ for that car so I would suspect its original.