Your accelerator pedal looks like it's sitting way too low, but if the top end where the cable attaches is in the right spot you might have to shorten the rod between the pedal and the pivot to raise the pedal a couple of inches.

Hi Sambo, I'm with curly, it looks like you have something out of whack there mate, gas pedal too low? or maybe too long?
What model is that acc pedal off in your final pic?

Fi8spider wrote:Hi Sambo, I'm with curly, it looks like you have something out of whack there mate, gas pedal too low? or maybe too long?
What model is that acc pedal off in your final pic?

The more that I compare this with other pics the more I think this is the wrong pedal - it looks far too long and it doesn't have the right bend in it. Have no idea what car it came from (although the bracket is fine) - I'll do a hunt and either get a different pedal or consider shortening....

Sambo42 wrote:

Fi8spider wrote:Hi Sambo, I'm with curly, it looks like you have something out of whack there mate, gas pedal too low? or maybe too long?
What model is that acc pedal off in your final pic?

The more that I compare this with other pics the more I think this is the wrong pedal - it looks far too long and it doesn't have the right bend in it. Have no idea what car it came from (although the bracket is fine) - I'll do a hunt and either get a different pedal or consider shortening....

I have noticed my accelerator pedal has a cut and re-weld if that's any help???....

A little bit of research on here has uncovered a picture of an AC coupe RHD acc pedal in previous discussion, Curly has been down this road before by the looks of things.

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php ... dal#p41948

Thought I might chime in on this one again. As I said before mine was converted by someone else, but this shows the pedal setup mine came with. Food for thought.


From driving this thing the clutch is way too close to the trans tunnel (you can see where the carpet has worn away from the drivers foot hitting it!) and the brake is a bit close to the accelerator. Makes it difficult to drive in thongs/big shoes but is great for heal-toeing! Looks like my brake has been "adjusted" to clear the column. May look at re-arranging down the track. Also the linkage that disappears up th LH side of the pedal box has bugger all clearance between the heater tap pipes and the pedal box, makes it fun when connecting the cable.

Hopefully these few shots will give you an idea of the booster placement in mine too. Have a guess which is before and after



The booster was pretty much as high as it could go in the engine bay, as it was you had to tuck it in behind the drain pipe, was a pretty close fit.

Hope this helps!

It looks like there are a dozen ways to do this. Just posting a quick update - here is this evening's work - holes now welded up with 1.8mm instead of the paper-thin firewall. Next will drill the holes for the booster, plug weld an extra layer of 1.8mm to reinforce the bulkhead and then mount the booster for a final check. I've decided to shorten the accelerator pedal rather than go hunting since the rest of it is good for the mount. Don't look too closely at the welds - haven't had time to clean them up.

Fi8spider wrote:A little bit of research on here has uncovered a picture of an AC coupe RHD acc pedal in previous discussion, Curly has been down this road before by the looks of things.

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php ... dal#p41948

It sure does - Curly's pedal in Spyduh looks identical to mine....

Hi all - just a few progress pics for the brains trust. I solved things with 4 washers - there are 3 bolts that hold the steering box on the subframe and I added 2 washers to the 2 bolts nearest the firewall but not the single that's closer to the front. That tilted the steering arm just enough towards the centre of the car to allow me to move everything just so, and now I'm happy with it all. I made up a piece of backing plate behind my template, plug welded that to the thin metal template, then plug welded the firewall in turn to that (hopefully the pics will explain better). Which means I've well and truly reinforced the fire wall. Now the only problem is that the extra thickness in the firewall has made it slightly trickier to mount the steering column mount to the brake booster bolts, but I can get them on. Some pics below, including with the crappy spare dashboard (RHD converted) in place to show where the steering column will go - sorry about the quality since they were taken with the phone

Brake booster mounted


Temporary mounting of the converted dash to check that the steering column ends up in the right place (you can just see the mount underneath)


Another view from the rear (drivers seat mockup in place)


The backing plate with plug weld holes drilled that sits behind the template for the brake booster mounting

I’m following this thread with interest as I’m currently finishing off a RHD conversion, although I started it over 20 years ago! I used a template I got in the early 90’s from JKL Autotech in Derbyshire (UK) for drilling the firewall.

The problem I’m having is lining up the seat position with the dash and steering wheel. If I position the steering wheel so it is central with the seat, it is shifted about 25mm to the right of the dash center. If I position it so it is centered on the dash (i.e. exiting the dash centrally between the rev counter and speedo) then the position is way out with the seat and feels terrible.

Have you (or anyone else) come across this issue? Looking at your photo with the dash fitted it does look like the cut-out is shifted left when looking up from the center of the seat.

I noticed that on my car the right-hand seat is 10mm closer to the edge of the car compared to the left-hand seat, so this would account for 10mm of the difference. However I’m seeing a difference of more than double this.

I hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread, but it seems relevant

Richard

On another note....again... Where did you score the headers?
Custom made? They look well built and nice design..
Chris

Hi Chris, the headers were already on the car when I bought it, I've got a feeling they were custom made, they're nicely made but are a very tight fit around the steering box and the tie rods!

Brodie.

.

fiatfactory wrote: Number one thing is the floorpan isn't a mirror image, there is less room on the RHS of the transmission tunnel, just how the cars were made. If you simply measure left / right your wheel ends up not centered on the seat, which isn't nice to drive. Definitely use a RHD 124CC components like pedal box and accelerator, it's easier and neater.

Good info Steve. How did you deal with the dash though? With the wheel centered nicely on the seat it is not central between the tacho and speedo. I thought about a bespoke dash with everything shifted over but that looks cramped when I drew it.

I'm also trying to use the original LHD pedal box and accelerator pedal. Am I wasting my time?!? What is the difference to the coupe parts?

Sorry, not meaning to hijack Sambo's thread. Maybe I should start a new one on my own troubles!

Richard you've got me worried now. The honest answer is that I'm not 100% sure how the seat will match up with the steering wheel because I don't have the original in for testing - I've mocked up a spare as best as I can balanced on the rails. I might remount the brake booster and pedal pox booster this weekend together with the steering wheel to recheck. I have been using a previous RHD dash conversion (minus instruments) to check the steering box mount and assumed that this converted dash was going to be OK. However the dash conversion looks to me like you could play around with things a little on the dash itself - the section that you cut out and transpose from the left side to accommodate the steering column could move a fraction either way and you could modify the wood panel in the dash to fit the steering column cutout, then slightly shift the cutouts in the wood panel for the instruments. I think I would do it that way (and might have to if the need arises). So the short answer - make sure the steering wheel feels good for the seat position, then alter the dash accordingly if you have to.

SteveC would you agree?