BEEK wrote:what didnt work? did the welded area break off or did the bolt break again lower?

I gave up on the drilling out the EZ out (whoever invented these should be slapped silly!). So I drilled around the EZ out with a small drill bit and I'm going to remove it that way. But chances are the threads will be ruined.

Next time I'll use left handed drill bits or the welded nut option. Live and learn.

i really dont recommend drilling it out and damaging the threads, not on a head bolt. too much tension and pressure there. a small mistake could result in failure after failure. i am not saying it cannot be done. but i would only do that as a last result. please reconsider and try the weld extraction first.

I'm almost afraid/embarassed to post but here's the result of getting the EZ out removed.





Argh! Not what I planned but one of those things I kept getting deeper and deeper into it.

I'd really prefer not to remove the engine. What reasonable options do I have to fix this in place? A few I can think of are...
- metal epoxy (devcon I think it's called) to fill, drill out again, insert Big-sert (oversized timesert) - http://www.timesert.com/
- getting mobile welding service to come out and see what he can do
- get it towed somewhere and see what they can do
- ummm... remove engine and bring to machine shop?

I don't need perfect. I need to get this engine running and using the car for not too much cost. Is there an iron weld stick that can be used to fill oversized hole?

Also, looking at some of the other head bolt areas, is this an insert/helicoil? Or is this normal?



Maybe this is why when I tried to torque a head bolt it broke off. Maybe the bolt bottomed out in the helicoil?

sorry to say, in my opinion, i would find a new block

Sorry to say, I think the block is toast. There is no such thing as steel epoxy, basically its just glue and will not hold. I would think welding would warp the deck so it would have to come out anyway. Maybe you can use a longer bolt and tap it. Are there any good threads left in the bottom of the pit?

The welding issue is that it is cast iron, which takes a special process to weld, the heat will warp the cylinder walls for sure, causing a bore or precision hone to fix, and then i would be real suspect as to the integrity of the hole. it just is not worth it on a head bolt hole, this is the absolute most critical bolt hole for the head to seal. evenness of pressure is very important to head gasket seal and longetivity. also how many metal shavings went down the oil passage right next to that hole?

BEEK wrote:The welding issue is that it is cast iron, which takes a special process to weld, the heat will warp the cylinder walls for sure, causing a bore or precision hone to fix, and then i would be real suspect as to the integrity of the hole. it just is not worth it on a head bolt hole, this is the absolute most critical bolt hole for the head to seal. evenness of pressure is very important to head gasket seal and longetivity. also how many metal shavings went down the oil passage right next to that hole?

Beek,
I covered everything before drilling. And I'll vacuum out the cooling area (where the end of the bolt goes into) as well. Yep. New 1981 engine block. How much can I get one of those for? As much as this is a pain (and caused by me) I'm learning a lot. Although sometimes I learn the hard way!

dom wrote:Sorry to say, I think the block is toast. There is no such thing as steel epoxy, basically its just glue and will not hold. I would think welding would warp the deck so it would have to come out anyway. Maybe you can use a longer bolt and tap it. Are there any good threads left in the bottom of the pit?

There are a few good threads at the bottom of the hole. Welding is definitely a no go. I feel so stupid with this one. We may be selling out boat so this will free up some cash to rebuild this engine right.

Man that sure does look painful. We have all been there at one time or another. Perhaps there is a salvage yard nearby with an engine you can pull???

If you can add more threads or use a helicoil insert below the damaged part you might be able to use a longer bolt.

dom wrote:If you can add more threads or use a helicoil insert below the damaged part you might be able to use a longer bolt.

They also sell plugs that you screw in and can redrill and insert a thread.

http://fulltorque.com/plugs.htm

Not perfect maybe but worth a try I think.

Richard

That would be more complicated since you will have to drill and tap twice. Use a helicoil or similiar. Its worth a try. However, if the hole opens up just below the damaged area so there is not enough material for a regular insert, then i think there is no hope.




[
They also sell plugs that you screw in and can redrill and insert a thread.

http://fulltorque.com/plugs.htm

Not perfect maybe but worth a try I think.

Richard[/quote]

dom wrote:That would be more complicated since you will have to drill and tap twice. Use a helicoil or similiar. Its worth a try. However, if the hole opens up just below the damaged area so there is not enough material for a regular insert, then i think there is no hope.




[
They also sell plugs that you screw in and can redrill and insert a thread.

http://fulltorque.com/plugs.htm

Not perfect maybe but worth a try I think.

Richard

[/quote]

I may try this one.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#97084a250/=o4zyli

I think M16 on the outside and M10 on the inside might just work. I have to get new bolts and I think these look good for correct torque.

http://www.allisonsautomotive.com/products.html - Head Bolt Kit

head bolts are 10 x 1.25, but you are spending good money after bad. time to regroup and get a new block.

If the EZ is out...before buy a new block, try to weld it in a machine shop (maybe with water in the block, to avoid torsion ?), make a new hole and a new thread and finally a resurface. After this operations you can do all the checks about surface deformation and cilynders; I think, it's always cheaper and better before go to hell and search an original block.