yes 148 tooth belt on the 2.0

and yes, keeping the tappets on the same valves will help, but you will be suprised that they will be different than before. every once in a while i might get 1 or even 2 that are in spec, but some will be way out.

I'm very happy. After the broken bolt fiasco and removing/reinstalling from the head up I got the car started last night. Took about 10 seconds of cranking and then came to life and ran well. I haven't adjusted the timing yet but that's next. I'm still getting an oil leak from the camshaft housing gasket near the firewall. It drips onto the exhaust and smokes a bit. Brand new gasket so I guess I'll retorquing the housing bolts and hope for the best. Should I try a sealant on the top and bottom of the new camshaft to head gasket?

I did noticed that the car started fine and then after about 10 seconds the RPM dropped (almost stalled), went back up and then back down again, eventually settling back at warm-up RPM. Then after another 10 seconds or so it would do this again eventually possibly stalling. I was hoping to let the engine warm up and see if things settle down a bit but the smoking oil leak had me worried and I shut her down. Because I rebuild the top end, ensured all hoses are tight, AFM moves fine, etc... I'm thinking the RPM issue might be.
1. Bad fuel - it's sat for about a year - should I add fuel stabilizer or do I have to drain the fuel and refill?
2. Air in cooling system - as best I could I filled the cooling system in the rad and the coolant T at the top of the engine. I had an old Honda Civic that I replaced the coolant in and air in the cooling system seemed to cause up and down RPM fluctuations.

Air in the cooling system won't make the rpm go up and down. Sounds more like a fuel issue
R/