As part of the heater core redo I removed the cables that went from the heater control levers to the heater core vent door, heater valve, etc. I tried lubricating the cable and I'm unable to move the cable back and forth inside the sleeve. Where can I get replacement cables? I was thinking these may be somewhat generic and I can cut to length and the angles the ends the same as before. I didn't see anything on autoricambi.

I am also looking for a replacement heater cable but this is because the wire end attached to the lever snapped due to a seized heater valve. If the original cable (shaped at each end) is not available I was wondering if solid wire was available which I could heat and shape?

rjkoop wrote:Where can I get replacement cables

Used?
I'll take a look, I should have several sets kicking about.
Chris

narfire wrote:

rjkoop wrote:Where can I get replacement cables

Used?
I'll take a look, I should have several sets kicking about.
Chris

Chris,
Thanks. Let me know. Right now I used lots lube spray down the cable and we'll see if this frees things up.

Richard

I have some spare complete units in my garage you can come check out. Another option may be a modified brake/gear cable from a bike shop etc.

Looks like this, yet has all the cables

4uall wrote:I have some spare complete units in my garage you can come check out. Another option may be a modified brake/gear cable from a bike shop etc.

Looks like this, yet has all the cables

Jay,
Thanks. I'll let you know. Any thoughts on best place to get an 8mm FI rubber fuel line and clamps?

Richard

Having done that myself I went to Partsource on Merivale for both Crappy Tire out in Kanata (I would assume) should have the same stuff

The only vendor I've found so far that has heater cable is Midwest Bayless:

http://www.midwest-bayless.com/storefro ... 7&c=192483

I could have sworn I saw this earlier at Autoricambi. Csaba?

Hope this helps.

Brian

while you are in there take a couple extra minutes and lube the flap/door on top of the heater box. I had a cable in good shape but the tension on the line was not enough to force the flap to open and close. Took the cowl off and moved the flap until it would move freely, cleaned and lubed.

Hello rjkoop, I've just realised that I may be able to use pushrods found in RC model shops or piano wire for my issue. Perhaps you can make replacements by also usinf the sheath that can be bought at cycle shops (Bowden cable) and the ends of the rods could possibly be bent by heating. Therefore you'd have nice new cables. I'm going to try to get some at the weekend then report back!

I'll second the notion of lubing the heater door flap hinges, that is more likely the problem.

FYI guys and gals I have tons of those cables (used) if anyone needs them. matt.scarton@gmail.com

I bought a piano wire today from a piano restorer, worked a treat and the ends shaped perfectly. It didn't need heating before bending as I just wound the wire around a drill bit. The wire was also vey cheap - he just charged me a couple of pounds for around 4 ft. A really good solution.

manoa matt wrote:I'll second the notion of lubing the heater door flap hinges, that is more likely the problem.

FYI guys and gals I have tons of those cables (used) if anyone needs them. matt.scarton@gmail.com

I removed the cowl and the heater air flap (2 bolts, came out easily) and the hinge is very difficult to move. I tried lubricating but the hinge is kind of a long bar inside a folded over metal piece (tough to get into). I'm thinking about heating it with a propane torch and trying to open the bent over metal a bit and getting more lube in there. Thoughts?

I wire-wheeled the flap and I'll POR-15 it once I get the hinge lose.

rjkoop wrote:

manoa matt wrote:I'll second the notion of lubing the heater door flap hinges, that is more likely the problem.

FYI guys and gals I have tons of those cables (used) if anyone needs them. matt.scarton@gmail.com

I removed the cowl and the heater air flap (2 bolts, came out easily) and the hinge is very difficult to move. I tried lubricating but the hinge is kind of a long bar inside a folded over metal piece (tough to get into). I'm thinking about heating it with a propane torch and trying to open the bent over metal a bit and getting more lube in there. Thoughts?

I wire-wheeled the flap and I'll POR-15 it once I get the hinge lose.

Got it! Lots of lubricant and realizing that the flap (where the hinge is inserted) was bent too far in the wrong direction. Put the flap in a bench vice and bent it back into position and now it works great! One less part I have to buy.