Bought a 1974 Spider for $500 from a local bodyshop a month ago. It only has 55k miles on it but has been hit in the right rear and has been sitting behind his shop for several years. The right door is pretty wrinkled, the RR fender is toast behind the wheel, and so is the trunk lid, but the rest of the car, including interior, is in pretty good shape. I moved it into my Jeep's spot in the garage and have it up on jackstands, wheels off, hood and trunk off. So far, I have changed the water pump, timing belt, alternator belt,changed oil and filter, trans and differential lubes, and pulled the carb for rebuild. Also took off all the brake calipers - the fronts look ok but the right rear has the bleeder broken off and the piston stuck, the left rear bleeder isn't moving and the piston is stuck on that one too. I found a salvage yard with a '73 and a '79, the door and trunk lid off the 73 look acceptable, but the right rear fender is pretty much rusted away. I want to make the car a daily driver (depending on weather) so I am not going too crazy with it. My plan is to take care of the mechanicals myself, clean up any rust in the engine compartment, trunk, and underside and paint with POR 15, then leave the bodywork and paint to the pros.
Some questions I could use help with are:
1. The car was partially desmogged, air pump is gone and air lines pinched off, but there is still the carbon canister, something in the trunk with 4 lines going to it, 3 lines from the gas tank - 1 fuel, 1 return, and 1 vent. What has to be hooked up and what can be removed?

2. What year body panels will fit a 1974, specifically the rr fender and rear panel where the license plate mounts?

Thanks in advance for the help, am sure we will get to know each other well over the next few months, will post pictures soon, John Johnson.

#3. Whats the best way to deal with a cracked dash pad? I have seen some covers, but this one is pretty warped too, not sure how a cover would look.

johnsje6 wrote:Bought a 1974 Spider for $500 from a local body shop a month ago. ... I want to make the car a daily driver (depending on weather) so I am not going too crazy with it.

You might have bought the wrong car. You say that you're going to sub out the body and paint work, and based upon your description, I'd say you're looking at several thousand dollars in that area alone. Did the body shop where you purchased the car give you an estimate on the body work?

A straight '74 would be a good candidate for a complete restoration: it is the last of the small bumper cars, and the 1974 MY is beyond reach of any smog state requirements. Consider selling it to someone with that in mind.

If you are patient, you can find a late-model FI Spider for way less money than you are going to be spending. They are much more plentiful, and are better suited as daily drivers.

>1. What has to be hooked up and what can be removed?

It can be all removed, but the stuff in the trunk is not in anything's way, I'd leave it.
You can remove the carbon canister and connect the metal vapor line to the bowl went connection on the carb (normally goes to the carbon canister)

>2. What year body panels will fit a 1974, specifically the rr fender and rear panel where the license plate mounts?

All rear fenders will fit. The taillight opening will be the same on 1970-78. On 1971 to mid 72 the taillight opening will be ~1/2" wider.

The rear panel is the same on all years. 1968-74 will have the plate mounting studs, later ones won't.

>#3. Whats the best way to deal with a cracked dash pad? I have seen some covers, but this one is pretty warped too, not sure how a cover would look.

You'd have to fill it to make flat for a cover to work.

Thanks, guys - below is a photo of the damaged area, can get a door and trunk lid for about $200, not sure whether to try to find new reproduction sheet metal or try to find a donor car. I realize it will be a lot of work and money at the body shop, but the car only has 55k miles on it and the rest of the car is in really good shape. But getting an estimate now is probably a good idea to make sure I am not getting in too deep. Take a look at the photo and let me know what you think about the sheet metal options - thanks!



Here are 2 donor cars, the red is a '73 and the blue is a '79, can get the door and trunk from the '73.

I think you'll be better off cuttings panels off a partscar, as if you need a brace or something on the inside, you can easily get it too. It will be a lot cheaper too.

The odometer is the least-important item in a 40-year-old car. 124 running gear was very well engineered and is extremely durable. Following rust, it's the plastic, rubber and copper bits that really add up in restoration costs.

Was the car driveable when you bought it?

I think I would use the '79 car for the rear quarter. You're going to need the rear valance as well by the look of it, although that piece is also available from international auto parts (there's an upper and a lower - you need at least the upper). I'm willing to bet there's too much rust in the quarter of the '73 car to make it usable....

Good luck - have been there and have the t-shirt to prove it....(or at least holes in the T shirt from the weld spatter)

International only lists the Spider 2000 upper valence. We carry the earlier version too.

Sambo42 wrote:I think I would use the '79 car for the rear quarter. You're going to need the rear valance as well by the look of it, although that piece is also available from international auto parts (there's an upper and a lower - you need at least the upper). I'm willing to bet there's too much rust in the quarter of the '73 car to make it usable....

Good luck - have been there and have the t-shirt to prove it....(or at least holes in the T shirt from the weld spatter)

Most if not all of the sheet metal parts are available at Spiderpoint.com. They are in Germany. Certainly not cheap and shipping is also very expensive. +1 on a donor car.
R/

Found new upper and lower valance panels from Mr. Fiat for $239 total. Was shocked - the only items I've ever found there cheaper than the major vendors I've normally dealt with.

Trying to catch up with the messages - first, thanks to all for the help and advice!
Baltobernie - I hear you about probably being able to buy a finished car cheaper, but this one is mine, I drove past it for 6 months before I decided I needed it, so I guess there is emotional attachment now. Judging by the names most of you have for your spiders, I don't think I am the only one! I think being able to look at the finished car (some day) and say "I did that" is worth it to me, but I may change my mind later!
The car owner told me that it was 'running when parked' about 3 years ago and from what I have seen so far I believe him. There is very little rust except for the damaged areas and the engine looks good so far, will know more soon when my dad gets done rebuilding the carb. I will do a compression test, then if it looks OK, will start it up. Am thinking of cutting up the '79 donor car to replace the damaged fender, valence etc, may still need to buy some metal but not as much. Biggest problem is that there is so much to do, I drift from one part of the project to the next, need to pick a project and finish it, so getting the engine running is next. There is a complete engine in the red donor car, but have no idea of condition, so hopefully mine will be OK.

Some new photos, the car apparently was parked under a pine tree because there were a lot of pine needles packed under the wiper motor. Got most of the rust wire wheeled out, now need to finish the underside and coat them with POR 15.

Good luck with it - heart often overrules head with these cars. I've had my '74 for 15 years and consider them the best mix - 1800 engine and blade bumpers.

Dont waste your time. It will cost a small fortune to have it fixed properly. Unless you have a serious emotional attachment to it be smart and let it go. For the money you are going to spend only on body and paint you will be able to buy a mint example. You are better buying another one with a good body and making one good car from the two.