Just wanted to show off a before and after photo;

My first bottom to top end rebuild. No leaks at all and runs really well.

Many thanks to all of you guys who have helped me with information or parts. I couldn't have done it alone.


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n01sOPIpxdU/V ... yside4.JPG

appreciate the look now....it will never look this good again.

I've got about 50 miles into the rebuild. All good so far. I plan on changing the oil at 100 miles. Not sure if this is too long/early?

The engine seems to make most power between 2500 and 3500 rpm. It just screams after 4000 rpm and doesn't seem to make any power. Too chicken to take it all the way to red line. I've never driven anything like this before so I have no idea if this is normal.

Had only timed it by ear so I checked it with a light today and it was at 10deg BTDC at 800rpm. The spec says 5deg for this year but I didn't want to touch it so I left it alone.

Has the original 28/36 DHSA2 with unknown rebuild history. All emission stuff connected. I have a single plane intake and a rebuilt 32/32 DMSA2 ready to go. But I'm taking a break from wrenching.

I also completely overhauled the brakes. Everything except a few hard lines were changed. Brakes feel good but seems to pull to the right when I hit them hard. Took forever to bleed them properly. Might need to do it again. Has new callipers all round so not sure what else to try.

Spend the half a day it'll take to get the single plane and newer carb installed.
You'll notice the difference.
10 degrees is good on your timing.

don't push freshly rebuilt engine into high revs.

Maybe the secondaries are not opening? Power should increase up to ~6000 rpm. But drive it easy for the first few hundred miles. 100 miles might be a bit early for a first oil change. I'd wait until 300.
Hope you are using oil with zinc in it.

A rebuilt engine should not be pushed to highway speeds or even run at a consistent speed until after it is gone at least 500 miles unless it was run in at various rpm under a moderate load on an engine test stand.

Treat that like the engine in a brand new car and get through the break-in period before giving it any high revs or performance checks. Moderate and varying speeds for the first 500 miles with only occasional moderately hard acceleration and no full throttle off the line launches. You really do not want to score or spin a bearing that has not seated yet. Then readjust timing, carbs, etc.

DieselSpider wrote:A rebuilt engine should not be pushed to highway speeds ...

I don't see any reason not to. Higher rpm at a light load is fine.

As for the pulling when braking, I went through the same thing. I rebuilt/replaced virtually everything in the braking system, and it still pulled to one side. It wasn't until I rebuilt the suspension (new A-arms, springs, shocks) that the pulling went away.

vandor wrote:

DieselSpider wrote:A rebuilt engine should not be pushed to highway speeds ...

I don't see any reason not to. Higher rpm at a light load is fine.

I was trained that a moderate break in of a rebuilt was best to promote the longest service life. Get those bearings and rings well seated before you push the rpm and you will grab/score/spin the bearings and burn/crack piston rings less often. The old timers insisted that it could make the difference between a 25,000 to 50,000 mile rebuild and having one last 100,000 plus miles.

It is moderate load and cylinder pressure. The "don't take it on the highway until it's broken in" is from the period of Model A's. We don't drive model A's.

vandor wrote:It is moderate load and cylinder pressure. The "don't take it on the highway until it's broken in" is from the period of Model A's. We don't drive model A's.

Not really, the don't drive it on the highway until its broken in was the rule up into the 1970's when these cars were made. They were starting to ease up on the recommendation around 1980 but still advised moderation during the first 1,000 miles.

The first page of the owners manual covers the need to refrain from high engine speeds especially in lower gears and not running the tachometer into the yellow zone during the first 1,000 miles. That was on a factory built engine while on a Do It Yourself rebuild one would be wise to take it a bit easier just in case they got the ring gaps or other fitments a bit tighter than they should be.

A rebuild from Dick Lancer's Speed Shop delivered ready to race is one thing but with a Home Shop First Effort I would take it easy with until everything is worked in and seated.

> not running the tachometer into the yellow zone during the first 1,000 miles.

The yellow zone is over 6000 rpm! The engine turns ~4000 rpm on the highway...

vandor wrote:> not running the tachometer into the yellow zone during the first 1,000 miles.

The yellow zone is over 6000 rpm! The engine turns ~4000 rpm on the highway...

My tach reads substantially higher than 4,000 at highway speeds however that could be due to compatibility issues with the tach sender on the Bosch Kiki IP hooked to the factory tach on the Spider yet the previous owner claimed the tach was spot on accurate though and it goes into the yellow when driving at posted highway speeds. I have the 4.30:1 axle with a 5 speed manual transmission. I am tempted to get an optical tach just to check for accuracy.

Regardless for a Home Shop Rebuild the easy break in is usually the best. Unlike the Model A the Spider engine does not have such large piston to cylinder wall and other loose tolerances. Tight runs hot so moderation is best when your new at this.

Depends what is highway speed, but with a 4.3 rear end 4000 rpm should be about 70 mph.

Most Diesel engines have a redline of 4500-5000 rpm. Do you know what is it on yours? You may be running at redline every time you are on the highway?