77 Weber 32 adf Carb spacer

[FordPrefect]

Hey all, I got my cracked firewall issue fixed with the jury rigged brake booster bracket, but now I've got another problem.

The car is difficult to start and dies within about 30 seconds of starting. Idle cut off solenoid connector broke off so I replaced it. (Not sure about the new one yet)

I was poking around and noticed the butterfly valve doesn't open all the way on the carb. An arm hits the intake manifold and prevents full movement.

Is there supposed to be a spacer instead of a mere paper gasket between the carb and manifold? Looks like maybe a quarter to half inch is needed.

Does that extra space also affect anything else?

[SteinOnkel]

Yes, the 32ADF will need a spacer or you can swap over the throttle lever from your 28adfa. That's what I ended up doing.

Most of the vendors sell a spacer.

[FordPrefect]

Thanks, I found I had a spare stashed away and put that in.

Throttle can open completely now, but the car still dies after running for 30 seconds or so.

[SteinOnkel]

Float level set? Choke opens if you push down on the plate? Fuel pressure okay?

[FordPrefect]

As far as I can tell, yes to all.

[FordPrefect]

Alrighty, did a quick rebuild on the carb, everything is clean and to spec.

Is there a way I can tell if the idle solenoid is an issue?

[SteinOnkel]

Alrighty, did a quick rebuild on the carb, everything is clean and to spec.

Is there a way I can tell if the idle solenoid is an issue?

Yes, two ways.

Take it out, connect the +12v and hold the body to ground. Should click and move plunger.

Or. Take it out, remove idle jet, remove plunger with a sharp set of snips.

[FordPrefect]

Thanks, it clicks and, with the jet removed, I can see the plunger retract. I'm tempted to snip it.

[manoa matt]

"If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it."

[SteinOnkel]

Thanks, it clicks and, with the jet removed, I can see the plunger retract. I'm tempted to snip it.

Nah, leave it, that ain't your issue.

Adjustment screws are where?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I'm late to the party here, but I do have a question: When the engine dies, does it start right back up again, or do you have to wait a while or do something before it will start again?

I think the '77 had the dual point distributor which used one set of points for starting and one for running. It's very common to have one set of points adjusted correctly while the other isn't, or just to have one set of points that has an issue with the electrical lead or the points themselves. A long shot, but perhaps this is your issue?

-Bryan

[SteinOnkel]

I'm late to the party here, but I do have a question: When the engine dies, does it start right back up again, or do you have to wait a while or do something before it will start again?

I think the '77 had the dual point distributor which used one set of points for starting and one for running. It's very common to have one set of points adjusted correctly while the other isn't, or just to have one set of points that has an issue with the electrical lead or the points themselves. A long shot, but perhaps this is your issue?

-Bryan

I would highly recommend binning all of that and getting a '79-'80 electronic distributor.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

I'm late to the party here, but I do have a question: When the engine dies, does it start right back up again, or do you have to wait a while or do something before it will start again?

I think the '77 had the dual point distributor which used one set of points for starting and one for running. It's very common to have one set of points adjusted correctly while the other isn't, or just to have one set of points that has an issue with the electrical lead or the points themselves. A long shot, but perhaps this is your issue?

-Bryan

I would highly recommend binning all of that and getting a '79-'80 electronic distributor.

Agreed. My solution as a starving student way back in the early 80s was to just connect the two distributor wires together and have them driven by only one of the two points. You can remove the non-used set of points, thus saving a few grams of weight for maximum acceleration!

-Bryan

[FordPrefect]

Kinda dragging this one up from the dead, but I am plum flummoxed.

I've actually put in an electronic ignition about a year ago, which made a huge difference.

I've been playing with this off and on when not busy at work, new baby, etc.

Geeze.

I've rebuilt the carb, disconnected the brake booster and sealed off its port. Done about everything I can think of, and the dang blasted thing will start without much issue, then starts to race and die after about 30 seconds. Starts right back up.

Vacuum gauge steady with decent numbers for those 30 seconds, then climbs rapidly before the engine quits. This makes me suspect fuel starvation, but plenty of fuel sprays out the fuel line. Adjusted the float and needle valve during the carb rebuild.

It's really frustrating.

[FordPrefect]

Also, the horn doesn't seem to work. Horn relay is buzzing all the time. Only stops briefly when I hit the horn. It looks like the tach on the dash drops a bit when I hit the horn button as well, but I'm not sure that the engine speed is changing.