I Changed my Dizzy and now I have no Spark

[MNspiderman]

My fully rebuilt my engine in my 77 spider. Rebuilt the 32adfa carb, had stock exhaust, single plane intake and a dual point distributor. The only thing i did was change the coil to a MSD Blaster II. Just the coil itself, nothing else. Everything was running terrific. Then I pulled off the exhaust and installed a header from IAP. Then I took off the intake/carb, and installed my dual weber 44idf's and intake (notawaffle) I left the points dizzy installed to assure a smooth startup, being it was timed and all. After adjusting the carbs in a few minutes. ( I have multi carb knowledge) I noticed that the NON header black cheap paint that came on the IAP headers was smoking right off of the header, were talking like 4 minutes and the black was gone. But I noticed that the paint was still on the #1 header pipe. It took about 45 seconds of agonizing flashbacks to get the balls to touch this header tube out of curiosity, so I did and it was cold. I was frustrated. So I checked for spark. Seemed to be weak spark up there at #1 when i pulled the platinum plug out and put it to a good frame ground. So I proceded to replace the entire distributor with an electronic dist. I disconnected the two wires from the points dist. plucked it out, replaced it with the electronic dist. put the two wires to the two wires that run into the firewall and went to start it up, NO SPARK. Hmm. So I hooked the wires directly to the coil properly, No Spark, I tried 43 wiring combos and No Spark, I even peeled back the white housing and grounded the woven wires to the frame as well, No Spark. Am I missing something here? I've done this a million times on an old ford. Do I need to remove the condensor from the coil? I have juice all the way up to the magnetic parts in the dist., I tested it with a light bulb tester. dist cap has ground, So whats going on? If the part in my dizzy is bad, is it replaceable?

[So Cal Mark]

the elec dizzy is only half the system; you need a module to amplify the signal from the pickup unit. Connecting the two wires that attach to the original points has nothing to do with the pickup unit

[MNspiderman]

Ok, So I looked around for ignition control modules. Which one do I need (want). Being realistic and under $200ish. Does that one from IAP work well enough? Can I buy one from Summit or Jeggs? I already have a blaster coil. What are some of the guys here using? Give me some help please. Thanks

[MNspiderman]

Alright I gottit all figured out. I'm going to get the MSD Ignition 6420 - MSD 6AL CD Ignition. Seems to be a good one. I'll have it tomorrow. Thanks. And I really hope #1 starts firing as well.

[So Cal Mark]

I'd measure the resistance of the #1 plug wire to make sure it's not open

[MNspiderman]

Good point Mark, I will be sure to do that. If thats the case. then this will be the second time i have been disappointed in a product I got from IAP. Being brand new wires are assumed to be good. First product was the header with a pretty black paint job that lasts aprox 4 mins. (Shouldn't they know what header paint is for) with the tails of the headers needing to be trimmed off by an inch (so my downpipe doesn't drag on speed bumps) and the down pipe welded together about 20 degrees off, (downpipe faces rear passenger tire, not straight back) not to mention the main curve after the clamps hitting my crossmember.