Hi all,
I was going to replace my u-joints due to thumping under my seat when clutch let out. Again, 25 yrs ago I was an above average back yard mechanic. Today, I feel like a babe in the woods again. I am doing this soo backwards. I pulled the drive shaft out figuring U-Joints are pretty simple, I discovered barely-attached center bearing support rubber. THEN I came here to read the archives, HELLO, HELLO, backwards! Slap, I could've had a V8!
OK, After reading the archives, it is apparent that I should rebuild most everything related to the drive shaft. That includes the guibo, center bearing, bearing support, and u-joints.
It is also apparent I should get a service manual, I forgot all about these. Primarily, I used to work on VWs, Corvairs, and Toyota Celicas and rarely used the manuals after a while. I could change the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and start up a VW Bug in 22 minutes. Now it takes me that long to change my underwear.
The questions:
1) Did I already blow it? I only marked where the rear u-joint meets the differential flange. I have read one needs to mark the drive shaft. But I am not clear where. Is it the orientation between the two axles that needs to be maintained, or is there more?
2) I bought U-joints with the zirk fittings in the body. I get the impression there will not be enough clearance in the assembled joint for this to work, is this true?
3) If the balance of a drive train is so important, how can there be a zirk fitting sticking out of anywhere?
4) Doesn't tranny fluid usually pour out of the trans when you pull the spline? Maybe b'cause I only have the stern on jack stands.
5) Any difference in quality between the IAP and Vick's parts?
Drive shaft questions
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- Posts: 548
- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Drive shaft questions
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
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- Posts: 2623
- Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2006 2:08 pm
- Your car is a: 70 124 spider-74x19-03 ranger edge
- Location: San Dimas, Ca
Re: Drive shaft questions
Generally I mark the both flanges at the rear, not sure how important this is, I just do it. Then if your replacing the u joint, mark them at the u joint so it goes back together the same. Im sure this is the critticle mark to keep it balanced.
Never tried a zirk fitting here.
No tranny fluid comes out.
Dont think the vendor really matters here. A u joint is a u joint, you can get them most anywhere.
Never tried a zirk fitting here.
No tranny fluid comes out.
Dont think the vendor really matters here. A u joint is a u joint, you can get them most anywhere.
Re: Drive shaft questions
I would recommend geting Ujoints without zerks. Technically, they are a better joint, with better seal, and high quality grease in em already, and you don't have to worry bout the zerk getting in the way.
Its nice if you mark driveline relationshp to rear end flange, but if you didn't no worries.
Driveline balance, see first sentance.
Stern??? Like opposite of Aft?? Or is it port??
Keith
Its nice if you mark driveline relationshp to rear end flange, but if you didn't no worries.
Driveline balance, see first sentance.
Stern??? Like opposite of Aft?? Or is it port??
Keith
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- Posts: 548
- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Re: Drive shaft questions
Thanks guys, I did mark the rear flanges. And I will mark the two axles at the u joint saddles between them. I like the idea of high quality pre-greased u-joints. This will be a fair weather driver so I'm not expecting to rack up the miles.
Keith, the stern is the physical back of the boat. Aft, is "toward the back". Starboard is right; port is left. Beloved boats and cars are female. As in:
"Look aft at the stern on that gal. Uh, oh. Don't look to starboard. Our wives, our wives!
Keith, the stern is the physical back of the boat. Aft, is "toward the back". Starboard is right; port is left. Beloved boats and cars are female. As in:
"Look aft at the stern on that gal. Uh, oh. Don't look to starboard. Our wives, our wives!
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
Re: Drive shaft questions
After removing my drive shaft I brought it to a drive shaft specialist who replaced the center bearing/pillow block and both u-joints for about $55.
Re: Drive shaft questions
i had to go the same thing. I just got a ceterbearing and center bearing support from Vick. they work fine. I got a u joint with a zerk fitting from advanced auto and there is no problem with the balance of the drive shaft.
also i dont really know if it makes a differnce or not but i heard you have to put like a hose clap around the flex disc. I was told if you dont do this you cant get it back on.
while you have the whole thing out you should put some fresh paint on.
also i dont really know if it makes a differnce or not but i heard you have to put like a hose clap around the flex disc. I was told if you dont do this you cant get it back on.
while you have the whole thing out you should put some fresh paint on.
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- Posts: 548
- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Re: Drive shaft questions
Paint! What's that. Well, I suppose I could. I hadn't thought about it but I see in the on-line "tutorials" they look black and shiny. The rest of the underside will chide: "Oooo look at Mis-ter Drive Shaft. All dressed up and no place to go". Until spring, that is.
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
Re: Drive shaft questions
I would not expect a zert fitting to affect the balance since it is so close to the center of the rotation. Acess would be limited.
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 9:20 pm
- Your car is a: 1968 124 Spider
- Location: Anamosa Iowa
Re: Drive shaft questions
I forgot to mark all the joints on a drive shaft were I replaced everything. joints, carrier bearing, Guibo and all. I didn't even think about since its been years since I dropped out a drive shaft When I thought about it was when I was getting ready to press the bearing back on. I never had any problems. No wobble shimmy shake shake,
I notice someone said they picked up a joint from Advance. I put joints in here from advance and I was amazed at the quality of the joint considering I don't normally think of them for Fiat parts. But I wanted it fast and didn't want to pay more for shipping then for the joint. They had it overnight at the store the next day no extra charge. But the COOL thing was, it too had a zert, but it wasn't in the body, it was in one of the end caps. Wow, I thought that was cool. I did think about balance at that point, but like RacyDave said, its so small and close to the center, no big worries.
To make up for the weight difference, I just scraped some of the rust off the same side and figured that would be close enough!
I notice someone said they picked up a joint from Advance. I put joints in here from advance and I was amazed at the quality of the joint considering I don't normally think of them for Fiat parts. But I wanted it fast and didn't want to pay more for shipping then for the joint. They had it overnight at the store the next day no extra charge. But the COOL thing was, it too had a zert, but it wasn't in the body, it was in one of the end caps. Wow, I thought that was cool. I did think about balance at that point, but like RacyDave said, its so small and close to the center, no big worries.
To make up for the weight difference, I just scraped some of the rust off the same side and figured that would be close enough!